headlamp glass MOT?

There is a small crack at the bottom corner of the headlamp glass on my Saab 9000. Yes, made of real glass, no nonsence those days. Caused by a stone hit on motorway, I remember I heard a loud noise, but only spotted the damage until months later. The position of crack is such that it has absolutely no effect on beam or light output, but I worry that MOT could claim it's a risk nevertheless, which I don't believe? I have an offer on a new glass for over £100 since it's hard to source for UK RHD. So I wouldn't like to replace the glass if not needed. What does MOT say?

Reply to
johannes
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I suspect it's a fail, but there are others here who can speak with more authority than I on that. I would suspect it's a fail because it potentially allows the ingress of water (and even worse saltwater in Winter) to the lamp's electrical connections and that is *never* a great combination.

Reply to
Cursitor Doom

This suggests all should be well:

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Though there is some wiggle room on 4.1.1.b.i as what determines "slightly defective". Given it says above "Repairs to lamps must be assessed for security, colour, light output, durability and beam aim" I might say something that doesn't interfere with the durability and aim should be ok.

Perhaps ask the MOT station before booking a test?

Reply to
Fredxx

My brother's having a run-in with Mercedes at the moment over the constantly misted up headlights on his S500. They tell him 'they all do that, sir' and want £1500 to replace the headlamp unit and no assurance that'll solve it.

I took a look - really poor - droplets of water. It's coming up to 3 years so the MOT should be interesting . . .

Reply to
RJH

If it might be a penetrating crack that could lead to water ingress, then apply a screen repair type sealant? Or clear tape?

Reply to
newshound

That's the thing... Any reasonable person would say that my lamp is OK and there is no risk whatsoever over and beyound what else can go wrong. The only electrical connections are at the back and directly on clipped onto the light bulbs, and the bulbs fail anyway, so I carry spares in my car. But MOT chapter and verse is something different.

Reply to
johannes

You might avoid garages that do "Discount" MOTs!

Reply to
newshound

I'd ask Autoglass or the like to quote for a repair. Even if they won't guarantee the repair it may be good enough for a tester.

Reply to
Robin

The headlamp on my son's car was half full of water. So, I made some drain holes in it. The difference is, though, that it was built in 1986. Tommy the Toyota, it's called.

Reply to
GB

Up to about the size of hole a 5p would cover, a blob of clear silicone sealant will do just fine.

For MOT it's not so much the damage when the hole is recent but the effect of moisture on the slivered reflector over time. If the reflector degrades the lamp will fail the MOT.

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Reply to
Peter Hill

I use one which does discount MOTs. While he does do repairs / servicing, the bulk of his business seems to be MOTs. I find him excellent. Certainly no suspicion he would fail something to get a repair job.

Reply to
Brian Reay

I wouldn't want to denigrate *all* of them, but if you have several competing to attract trade they have to make their margin somewhere. There's nothing to beat experience and/or a good local recommendation. My guy charges full price but he will always have a quick look at something without charging.

Reply to
newshound

My Pug 305 estate failed because water ingress had made the headlamp reflectors grubby.

I just removed the glass by gently pushing a putty knife into the joint and the 'glue' came apart. Half the joint on each side was ajar anyway.

After cleaning the reflectors I just glued the glass back on using Loctite 785?. One of those adhesives that fit in a metal gun anyway.

Reply to
Andrew

I have used the same MOT garage for oh, 10 years or so. And I'm still using them even after I moved away from the area.

Reply to
johannes

I used to have a Nissan Micra. The headlights were very cloudy. My Man at the garage used some sort of polishing stuff, dunno what it was but the headlights were like new after he had done the job. I did try the toothpaste method in the past, it did not work.

Reply to
Mr Pounder Esquire

The toothpaste trick does work bloody well for reviving tired and unreadable CDs & DVDs, though.

Reply to
Cursitor Doom

If I find somewhere good- be it for MOTs or servicing I can't/don't want to do myself, I tend to go back. I must have used one place for perhaps getting on for 30 years until the owner retired and sold up. I've no idea what is happening to the former site- I suspect several houses will be built there. I confess I'm a bit worried about another one I use- he is very good, has a good reputation etc, but is rather a small scale (not a criticism- far from it) which makes it harder to ride out ups and downs. He has mentioned once or twice things have been quiet.

I've recently started using a small tyre place which, while near to me, I'd never noticed- it is tucked away behind another business. He is another one man outfit which, at least so far, seems very good. While I'd previously used a local, larger, company which were always fine, I'm keen to support smaller businesses. Plus, as far as I can tell, he is quite competitive etc.

I must admit, I'm not sure what I will do when our main car needs servicing after the initial service contract expires. Being a Hybrid we decided to invest in a service contract (which was quite a good deal) and, while in the past I've always done basic oil changes, brake pads etc myself, a combination of car complexity and some dexterity issues makes me wary of it. Even our motorhome, while not that complex (at least the previous one), I took to my friendly garage due to not being able to get it level on our drive to even change the oil- although I did find a way in the end. The new motorhome, while a similar engine, is a more advanced version and seems to have more 'gizmos'.

I actually quite enjoy a bit of servicing, provided I have the time etc (don't let anyone tell you that when you are retired you have lots of free time!). I still service our Smart Car and my old CRV which my son-in-law now has- at least I've shown him how to do a basic oil change etc. We are even thinking of getting a new Smart Car which means even less tinkering.

Reply to
Brian Reay

But the manufacturers are making an oil change more a PITA if you have to do it on your own driveway.

On my current car I now have to first remove an under engine floor panel before I can get to the drain plug. I used to be able just to jack up one side of the car (lift the body to top of suspension) and support with one axle stand to gain enough clearance to reach under to undo the plug and for the bowl for the old oil. Now there is all the hassle of gaining more room for removing the floor panel.

Reply to
alan_m

The early Smart Cars (the 450 ones) didn't even have a sump plug. I assume the old oil was sucked out via the dip stick tube. While I assume this worked, and is common practice on all cars in some 'quick oil change' places I believe, it isn't something many home mechanics can do. A standard mod was to change to a modified sump. The later 451 Smarts have a drain plug. The dealer was 'amused' when I crawled under the Smart we were looking at before buying it, just to check it has a drain plug. (I always look under the bonnet etc- which some dealers find 'quaint'.)

Reply to
Brian Reay

Just like mine and part of the drive to maximise fuel efficiency, by presenting a smooth under surface and lower to the road surface too.

I just drive it up a pair of ramps, then undo the Zuezs (sp?) fasteners working from the rear, whilst propping it up with my toes as move forward - nine of them. Whilst off, it gives me a chance to carry out a good inspection for problems and check there are no leaks. Re-fitting I work from the front lip back, again propping it on my toes.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

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