Locked out!

1995 Vauxhall Cavalier LS.

Problem: Can't unlock. I've tried the key in the driver's side and key in the passenger side. The key won't turn at all in the drivers lock, the passenger lock turns slightly but it almost feels like there is someone inside holding the button down. The only way in is via hatch (the boot has a 'manual override' - insert the key, turn and press). The key works here & in the ignition.

Once inside, I can't unlock any of the four doors manually. The driver's and passenger's doors won't open with the internal door handle - I thought this overrode the locking state, or is it deadlocked? Didn't think Vauxhalls of this age were secure like this!

I can pull the driver's internal door lock knob up but it springs back down again. None of the other three internal door lock knobs will move at all.

I have tried all the above with the battery connected and disconnected. On other cars I've had with C/L, disconnecting the battery puts it into 'manual mode', i.e. the key opens one door, the others can be opened manually from inside.

The only other thing I can think of is to fool the microswitch into thinking it is being locked/unlocked. Can anyone shed some light onto how this works? The switch is in two halves held together by a spring clip. Each half has a metal strip down its length but I can't see what happens to sense the door being locked or unlocked. Should the metal strips be shorted, or is it two micro-switches, one for lock and one for unlock?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Posted via Google Groups, for email please use pmunro at cqxsysxtemsx.coxm.invalid (remove x's), my google posting email address is unmonitored.

Thanks

Pete

Reply to
PM
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I had a similar problem with an l reg astra. This car had auto deadlocks. The problem was that the deadlock part of the lock had rusted up due to old age. After a lot of wd40 and wiggling it unlocked, I could then strip the lock off, IIRC there was a small ball thing which was rusted in its track, this was easy to clean and grease up.

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

The deadlock on the drivers door is a mechanical arrangement, whereas on the other doors the deadlock is electrical, through the locking motors themselves. It sounds as though either the mechanical part of the system has seized up in the locked position, the drivers door lock barrel has worn excessively, or the deadlock microswitch on the drivers door (the one with the yellow/red wire) has stuck. The other microswitch is for total closure of the electric windows. The lock/unlock switches are contained within the locking motor itself.

I assume that you have removed the drivers door card to access the door internals? If you have, then you can disconnect the wiring connectors from the microswitches, remove the connector from the locking motor, and earth out the brown/white (unlock) wire. This should release all other doors. From there you can remove the drivers door locking mechanism and locate the problem. The microswitch can be tested with a continuity tester, but I have not known one to go wrong (yet). As for the mechanical deadlock, another poster has mentioned about ball bearings. There is a small roller bearing that can seize in place, as well as other parts of the mechanism that can break. Be careful taking it apart as there are lots of small parts ready to fly all over the place once you remove the retaining clip.

HTH

Anthony Remove eight from email to reply.

Reply to
Anthony Britt

This must be done on the driver's door lock. It will fix your problem, assuming that everything was ok a couple of days ago. If it's been standing and rusting for a while the problem is more serious.

Someone had a fair go at entering through the passenger door of mine (1989) using a screwdriver, without success. The security on the Mk3 Cavaliers is, IMO, far far better than on Mk1 or Mk2 models.

___

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Reply to
DP

That's great info Anthony (& thanks to the other posters who replied), you are right in that I have removed the door card. Earthing the wire has now let me in the passenger side & the other doors can be unlocked manually.

I still have a problem - yesterday I was able to open the driver's door by jiggling the internal lock knob and door handle at the same time. I can no longer do this and I can't get the locking mechanism off with the door shut.

Is the deadlock mechanism within the lock, or is it in the lock barrel itself? Looking at the other answers it's in the barrel. How can I manually unlock this? On my Mk2 Cav the end of the barrel was easy to get to, the locking rod could be unplugged and manually moved to lock and unlock the door, I can't see if it is the same arrangement on the Mk3. I also can't get the handle off completely, I've undone the two nuts and the plastic part of the handle almost comes through the aperture, however there's a metal plate that won't come through & I can't see where the locking rod is.

Thanks

Pete

Reply to
PM

The deadlock mechanism is mounted on the metal plate behind the door handle, on the end of the lock barrel. Remove the two 10mm flanged nuts, as well as the locking rod which runs from the RH end of the locking lever, to a plastic clip on the door latch. To release the clip, it has to be pushed away from you (as you sit in the drivers seat). The whole metal plate can now be removed - it come out through the inside of the door. There is no need to remove the plastic part of the door handle.

Use a small screwdriver to carefully remove the circlip from the end of the lock barrel shaft. This will allow the deadlock cam to be lifted clear. There a some small ball bearings/rollers that can drop out at this point, so best to do this with the assembly inside a clear plastic bag to prevent loss of the parts. The deadlock mechanism is available as a complete assembly from a Vx dealer. Cant remember the price exactly, but its not extortionate.

HTH

Anthony remove eight from email to reply.

Reply to
Anthony Britt

Many thanks Anthony, I've done exactly as described & it has worked a treat! The plastic part of the handle came off anyway, it's a bitch to get the rod back in and in fact I've broken the plastic clip, off to Vx today to get another one. Spot on on the deadlock, the ball & channel looked a bit rusty, if it isn't too expensive I'll just get another one - as far as I can tell the only way to get the door open if it fails again is to cut a hole in the door card :-(

Pete

Reply to
PM

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