Low use car - how to make it last... I mean really last.

Citroen Berlingo MPV, 2001, 1.6i, 16v.

A disabled friend has bought an adapted version of the above - he's in a wheelchair and travels in the back [ramp, lowered floor, fixing points etc]. Its ex-motability, bought from the auctions, 15k miles and appears to be pretty much as new. FSH from Citroen dealer, last serviced Sept 2004. Originally wanted the 1.9 D for economy and reliability [?] and cheaper insurance, but the choice was limited so he's ended up with the 'sporty' 110hp model, which has actually turned out cheaper on insurance than the 75hp diesel for some reason.

He's invested all his savings in the Citroen so he wants/needs it to last as long as poss, we're talking minimum of 10 and possibly up to

20 years! Citroen might not be the 'first choice' when it comes to reliability, but the adaptations meant there wasn't really an alternative. It will be getting 'low-use' - mainly short 'shopping' runs of just a few of miles, with the occasional longer run. Probably just 2000 miles per year.

It's stored in a car-port so it's out the worst of the weather, and much of the metal is galvanised so I hope corrosion won't be too much of a problem, but its the mechanicals that concerns us, eg engine/brakes etc.

I've changed the oil and checked the pads, but that's about my limit when it comes to car stuff. What else should I/we do to give it a long fruitful life? I'm sure the local Citroen dealer would do it all, but at a price, so can you give me suggestions as to maintenance beyond the normal yearly stuff to make it last? We're looking at simple/cheap stuff that might save money in the long run. Any known issues with these models [believe the engine is same as in some of their sporty hatches]. Sometimes it might not get used for a couple of weeks, is it beneficial to just run engine up to temp? Anything summer/winter related? Any tips at all gratefully accepted.

Reply to
Sim G.
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-have it serviced as per car manual

-drive slowly, like a rolls chauffer

-have it washed by hand or car wash regularly (Important!!)

cars usually start going downhill after you have your first accident

dont worry too much,some of car longevity is not in your complete control. luck also is a factor

Reply to
beerismygas

Starting with the basics. Reguarly wash and wax any painted panels (including inside off doors, door pillars etc). Washing gets rid off all the dirt, that aids corrosion, and the coating off wax will provide a protective barrier between the panels and dirt/moisture. Get the underbody (including any channels/cavitie), inside the bonnet, inside door panels, panels around the engine, basically anything you can't get into to wash and wax, covered with a good wax (waxoyl or similar). Don't use underseal, as if moisture gets underneath it, it'll stay trapped there and cause far more problems in the long term.

Next thing to consider is the mechanics. Get any small faults sorted when they occur, so they don't develop into any major faults. As for maintenance, cars used for low mileages/short distances, are very hard on the engine. Make sure the oil is reguarly changed as per the service schedule, possibly even more often as on regular short journeys the oil will get contaminated with petrol during the cold running, and accelerate engine wear. As for the other mechanical components, just make sure they're maintained as per service schedule, and ensure any fluid changes (brake fluid, coolant etc..) are done as per the service schedule. Keeping the fluids fresh helps to prevent internal corrosion.

If the vehicle isn't going to be used for a couple weeks at a time, I'd recommend you get a small battery charger, just to keep the battery topped up (there are small units designed for keeping the battery conditioned over long periods off time). Starting the engine, and letting it run is likely to cause more damage in the long term, than not running it at all.

I'm sure others will be along with their recommendations aswell.

Reply to
Moray Cuthill

Well, things I do to keep my cars in good shape :-

Change the oil twice a year, at the beginning of summer and at the beginning of winter even if you do low miles. Spray all nuts and bolts, earthing points etc... regularly with WD40. After taking the car out on a wet winters day, wash the underside of the car, get rid of the salt. Take the car for a run once a month or every two months and once the engine is fully warmed up accelerate all the way to the red line a couple of times to keep the valves etc clean and removes water from the exhaust system. If parking for extended periods of time keep the car in gear and don't use the handbrake. Change the brake fluid every two years. Wax car every six months.

Andy

Reply to
akd

I don't agree with that if the engine is a consideration. Modern engines like to be thrashed. It keeps condensed water out of the oil. However, as a disabled driver your friend may not wish or be able to drive fast. But that's another issue.

Rob Graham

Reply to
Rob graham

In message , Rob graham writes

Depends:

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Reply to
Steve Walker

Im disabled and always drive with enthusiasm.

Reply to
Julian 'Penny for the guy' Hales

In article , Sim G. writes

No chance. For a start, it's French. Look at all the posts complaining about French cars in this group.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

However, as a

Me too, you definately don't want to labour it, but you also don't want to thrash it when cold.

Reply to
petermcmillan_uk

Out of curiosity what's the WD40 for? Does it prevent rust?

I've just been thinking. He's disabled, so I doubt that he'll be able to do all of this work himself, and it'd cost a fortune to get all of this done.

Reply to
petermcmillan_uk

The message from petermcmillan snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com contains these words:

Yes - and frankly that's about its only use. It's not a particularly good lubricant and it's not much cop as a penetrating and easing oil.

Reply to
Guy King

You have to use them. Short shopping trips will kill it. Seen cars that only do short trips need a bottom end engine rebuild at 50,000. OTOH, motorway trampers do 200,000+ with little problem.

Reply to
Conor

driving farther than necessary means wear on the shocks and other perishable parts and especially important: greater chance of accident

you can (and will probably do anyways after 10years) have a mechanic rebuild a worn engine successfully. you can even have the engine swapped.

a corroded/ fatigued or impacted car chassis however cannot in most cases be economically repaired nor replaced.

i like to say "my other car is a bus". makes economic sense

Reply to
beerismygas

Why is it that it can stop squeaks and stuff? Some people swear by it for squeaky wheels (not car wheels, things like wheels on wheel barrows) etc.

Reply to
petermcmillan_uk

Probably

I really wanna see how long my parents car lasts, but I think they'll die before it reaches 50,000miles lol. It gets so much abuse though, and it's brand new. They also have a habit of getting home, leaving it in the driveway until the evening when it's cold, and then putting back in. Other than that it gets laboured and my mum doesn't even know when she's doing it. It's just such as waste. It hardly ever does long trips either.

Reply to
petermcmillan_uk

Delete "french cars" and replace with "Renault" which are far worse than Citroen Peugeot.

Reply to
Angus McCoatup

Me too, but i`m in a Hyundai Accent.

I`d *like* to be able to drive with enthusiasm, but...

Reply to
Colin Wilson

The message from petermcmillan snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com contains these words:

Because it's a lubricant, but there are far better lubricants on the market for almost every conceivable[1] occasion. WD40 just happens to be well advertised and in a handy can. Wheelbarrow wheels, for example, would benefit from grease rather than a squirt from a general purpose can. Stiff nipples come off better with graphited penetrating and easing oil, locks deserve graphite powder, etc.

[1] If it's a conceivable occasion, KY jelly is best.
Reply to
Guy King

Look at the contents. It's a mix of a heavy grease and a light solvent so you can squirt it IIRC

Reply to
Chris Street

Possibly worth a block heater if it's only ever going to do short runs - that way it may get some running at full temp?

I'd also say swap the oil twice as often as needed to clear out all the contaminants that will invariably accumulate.

Reply to
Chris Street

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