Mot failure ?

Would my car fail as the brake disc on the front drivers side clunks ?

(cheaps pads, that I have not had a chance in changing yet) ... first go at using ATF I think pads and last, next time pagid or originals all the way as its a real ball ache.

Just wondering as my MOT is coming up if I should take some time off work to do it, or fingers crossed it flies through ... ?

Reply to
Stephen
Loading thread data ...

it may pass, but you know that there is a fault with your brakes, arguably one of the most critical safety systems of the car, so you know what you should do.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

"Stephen" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

The _disk_ doesn't clunk. At least, not unless it's loose. Which can't really be blamed on the disk manufacturer.

ATE is OEM on many cars, so they're hardly off-brand pikey.

I'd be looking very carefully to find out what's not been fitted properly, if you've recently replaced the disks & pads.

Reply to
Adrian

as Adrian says your discs shouldnt clunk,something seriously wrong if they are clunking, sounds more like the anti rattle springs/clips have been left off the pads,what car is it? but if the pads are secure & not about to let go then you shouldnt have a problem with regards the MOT, should be looked at though.

Reply to
reg

Doppy moment there, yeah pads clunking.

That said I seem to have a problem with them, possibly ... unless something else is wrong.

I had it done at the local garage and took it back there and they said it was the wishbone, which they replaced as the bushes were worn but not just the bushes they said it was simpler and easier to fit a new wishbone as there was not much in cost in it so I had that done, then he said it was the dogbone which didn;t cure it.

The sound to me sounds to be coming front the drivers side wheel so I'm chucking my inexperience and lack of knowledge on sliding discs as when you reverse out of the drive touch the brakes they are being forced in one direction and then you get a clunk, but if you reverse out of the drive and put it in first with no brakes no clunk, so I have convinced myself it is the pads\brake fault. I have given up on the local garage as they're costing me a bundle!

Reply to
Stephen

Bang on as always MrC ... I would not muck about with brakes as well as you say critical safety and all. Its not been driven since as I communte on public transport but I need to get to the bottom of the problem, but time is very little so I think the sensible thing would be to get some OEM pads for peace of mind and take it to the garage gentle and ask them to change the pads on the front. Then get it MOT'd.

Appreciate the good advice.

Reply to
Stephen

Evenin Reg, its a mk4 golf 1.6s 2001. I did have an ameteur poke around and the springs are all there and doing there job, perhaps the springs are a bit weak and under directional change don't do so well.

I thought I'd source some OEM pads from the dealer and get a specialist to fit them as its not in my skill set to touch brakes. I'm hoping it is the brake pads, as I've had the wishbone replaced and dogbone but the clunk does sounds like its coming from the drivers wheel. I did a little test I reversed out of the drive stright line touched the brakes and clunk I reversed out of the drive second attempt here slipped into first no clunk so it only happens on braking. Perhaps something more sinister is up with my drivers brake pads or something else under there. Definitely a job for the pros who will spot is instantly.

Reply to
Stephen

I forgot to mention the pads and discs were changed all fronts and rear for ate pads and discs 5 months ago. Worked fined for about 4 1/2 months and then I noticed the clunk which can sound quite hard sometimes. I hope my caliper is not cracked or damaged as a result.

Reply to
Stephen

Stephen brought next idea :

I would feel inclined to also check the drive shaft and joints.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

I could have put a bet on it being a golf & won, your pads (link might work)

formatting link
when we fit VW OE brakes they sometimes come through with a peel of sticky pad which secures them to the piston edge & caliper to stop the clonking noise.

Reply to
reg

Ahh you are a wealth of information reg! :)

So the safe bet would be that its moving on the piston side ... is this dangerous and needs changing ? (they pads are almost new ... I barely drive) or would they need glueing or sticking somehow to the piston :-s (bit out of my technical depth :)

Reply to
Stephen

not dangerous if that is what it is (id still have it checked out though), we use an ATE product, its a blue liquid that is applied to the backs and touching parts of the pad to caliper, it dries to a rubbery constituency for the more stubburn brakes that wont stop squealing or clonking, but normaly a decent make of pad wont give any trouble.

Reply to
reg

Uh huh sounds like original pads are the way to go if this is what the problem is. Or a dab of prict stick :) ... I did notice lots of brownishish looking lubricant\grease on the pad ..

I've normally used pagid pads and never had a prolem but they were out of stock and the chap suggested ATE which I undestand is a reputable name in this game (rhyme not intended) ... so I bought them and paid the garage to fit them. But I think I'll get some original parts and have a clonk free life :) ... but first I might get the specialist to see what the problem is before buying anything.

The top advice is much appreciated :)

Reply to
Stephen

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.