No coolant in my Rover 214Si

After a conversation with myself for five minutes I put just water in it. I measured out 1litre of it, and it needed 400ml to get to the "maximum" level. If it suddenly gets cold again then hopefully any fluid that is already in it will be enough, but I'll plonk some in next time it needs a top up.

--Nick.

In message , Nick writes

Obviously plain water is better than no coolant at all but remember that the coolant contains corrosion inhibitors so you do need to have a reasonable strength mixture.

I would suggest that you monitor the level carefully for the next couple of weeks and it doesn't drop (i.e. you have no leaks and the head gasket is fine) then I would take the opportunity to drain the system down completely and refill with fresh coolant/water mix. Its a job that should be done every few years anyway.

I would also check your engine oil for signs of mayo if you haven't done so already.

Not sure how to check the engine oil for signs of mayo, and I'm not sure how to fully flush the coolant. I understand that the coolant can't just be topped up all the time. There are certainly white bits in it, little slithers (like dried flakes of paint, if you see what I mean) so I think it needs a flush.

--Nick.

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Emulsified oil (mayo) shows itself inside the oil filler cap as a whitish, mayonaise looking deposit. At best it's only useful as a guide to a cylinder head problem. A car regularly used on short journeys, will almost certainly have mayo in the cap. Caused by internal condensation. Usually the most common cause IME. The engine never gets hot enough for it to evaporate. If that is the cause, a good long run will dry it out, and clear it. If caused by a faulty cylinder head gasket, it won't clear. Possibly there'll also be signs of oil in the coolant, and oil on the dipstick might also look a bit milky.

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The easieast way might be to remove the bottom radiator hose to empty the system, then flush it using a hose in the filler cap. Mike.

Catch the old coolant and initial flush in a big washing up bowl and put it down a waste water drain that goes to a treatment plant. DO not allow it to go down surface water drains, road gullies, soakaway or any other drain that may go to a water course untreated.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

waterpump, radiator?

SWMBO's car does nothing but short (2-5m) journeys and has never had any mayo in the cap or breathers. It does get regular oil changes, though :-)

Stuart Sharp

I don't see anything like that in the oil so I assume it's fine at the moment.

Is removing the bottom radiator hose simple? I mean, is it easy to disconnect & reconnect as I intend to get it done at the end of the week when I've got a couple of days off of work.

I went and bought a litre of "Halfords" coolant, and notice in my Rover 214 handbook (one that came with the car) that I should put 50% antifreeze & 50% water. Do I have enough antifreeze - how much liquid will be in the coolant in total? Sorry about all the questions, but I'm on a bit of a steep learning curve.

--Nick.

In message , Nick writes

It should be. Depends on the type of clip used to secure the hoses. Sometimes it is a jubilee or worm drive type on which you use a screwdriver. The other common type requires a pair of pliers to squeeze and undo. Have a look at the large top and bottom radiator hoses to see what type is used.

Probably not enough as there will be more than 2 litres of coolant.

You really should have bought a Haynes manual for the Rover 214 when you were in Halfords. It will help you a great deal and pay for itself in the long run.

I've seen those squeeze with pliers type clips broken and letting water out.

-- Jon

They're also a bit of a bugger to get back on without mole grips or some other variety of clamping tool.

That's what the Christmas jubilee clip assortment is for :-)

Bought a special tool to do it :O)

-- Jon

Quite. The K series isnt the most forgiving engine to begin with as a beginner DIY-er! They can be tricky to bleed and if you are not totally familair with cooling systems and the K series it will end in tears and a blown head gasket. That said it sounds like the OP already has the beginnings of a blown HG as he mentions oil "slivers" in the header tank. :(

Tim..

IMHO, they're only meant to be used once. I wouldnt risk re-using them for the 2-3quid a pair of new wind up jubillee clips cost. If you get a leak and loose the coolant and melt the engine, you'll know what I mean.

I only use the stainless jubilee now- dont rust and remain looking good.

Tim..

Well, it only cost me £900 new, it's lasted nearly a year, and was a good second car. My 300 year-old Proton (I learned to drive in it, passed my test, then sold it for £250) but the Rover 214 has been quite good, spent something like £400 since then, cost me £100 for its

64,000 mile service (already replaced the cam belt & front brakes) the next things I'll replace will be the shocks.

If the engine dies then oh well. It was good value :)

--Nick.

Actually, to quote Nicks post;

"There are certainly white bits in it, little slithers (like dried flakes of paint, if you see what I mean)"

he doesn't describe them as oil slivers but "like dried flakes of paint". Sounds to me to be more like crystalised antifreeze which is to be expected in a dry expansion tank. I've never seen dry oil before, emulsified or otherwise.

That's good news!

--Nick.