Rover 214si Cambelt Question

As no-one seems to have picked this one up, I'll try and help *but* I have only done this on the Mk2 200, so things may well be different on the Mk3, however it should be obvious if things I say don't apply.

It is for the Mk2 - 5years/60,000 miles. I would check it regularly, and change it if there is any sign of wear, damage or contamination irrespective of age.

Working clearances are a bit tight on the old 200, and probably no better on the Mk3 which is smaller. You need to remove and replace the alternator and power steering drivebelts - the tensioner pulley nut on the old 200 is hard to reach and needs a cranked ring spanner. You can check if you can manage these beforehand, before committing to changing the timing belt . The front engine mount is in the centre of the belt, so you need a trolley jack or similar to take the engine weight while you remove the mount. Before you go too far, check whether there are any leaks - oil or coolant -apparent, as you will need to remedy these while the belt is off. Check the condition of the water pump, if it's anything other than perfect then put a new one in while you are there. Siezed pump = broken belt = broken engine. As always with timing belts, be especially careful not to crimp or contaminate the belt, or bend it in any way more than necessary. When you have the new belt on, double check that all the timing marks are in the right place, and you haven't skipped a tooth somewhere.

Yes, you will need to either get the right tool to lock the camshaft sprockets, or make something up. Not that hard, if you have some bits of metal lying around and are handy with a hacksaw.

Cheers Bob. Greatly appreciated.

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