Hi,
Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums. Any tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace those without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush with the back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given that it hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can sort it?
Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and undo them in future, live and learn...... :)
Thanks,
Peter.
Got an easy-out set?
No!
Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
For the others, if they too are stuck...
Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp then allowing it to cool. The heat expands them in the thread, breaks up the rust and when they contract they usually come out much easier.
For the one which broke off, try an extractor or a left hand fluted drill bit.
OK. Thanks...
Peter.
Don't bother to remove it just replace the cylinder, they are only about 6 pounds, it is not worth your time and effort to get a seized nipple out.
Tapered ones don't work, but try a parallel splined one, such as Facom (from Halfords) You also need exactly the right size drill bit for it.
Given the hopefully low price of a whole new cylinder though, that's how I'd do it.
Wtf are you worrying about the cylinder- they are less than £10 to replace.
Tim..
Yes it's still safe.
If it were me, I'd just go to the local motor factors and get a new=20 brake cylinder. They're all of =A37-=A38 and the old one will probably be= =20 shagged anyway.
--=20 Conor
I'm not prejudiced. I hate everyone equally.
New cylinder like what everyone else says. I expect you'll have problems with undoing the connectors to the back of the cylinder though, so here's the order of goodness for undoing things from best to worst:
1) Oxy acetlyene + plus gas 2) Blow torch + plus gas 3) Plus gasAny of the above may be combined with a good belt from a spanner, using surface drive sockets if you can get them on it, or if not, a proper bleed spanner or brake union spanner to try and avoid rounding the thing.
Harry Bloomfield wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@tiscali.co.uk:
FILTH!
What the f*ck has all this car crap got to do with uk.telecom.broadband
Adam
snip. The trouble is that these were probably overtight in the first place. They seat on a taper and just a little over hand tight will give a good seal.
You can get extracors for broken screws. These are used after you drill a hole in the screw. They have a rough screw type cutting edge, (like a tap), but with the opposite direction thread. As you screw them into the hole you drilled they are turning in the opposite direction to the thread you are attempting to remove so tend to extract the original threaded screw. I.e., original screw thread tightens by turning clockwise: New thread is going in anti-clockwise. It is also advisable to use some heat on the old screw first and then to let it go cold., (heat expands the original screw and makes it tighter but when it cools it helps break the grip of the threads.
In article , light@under_bushel.eu says... ..
Why do you keep posting "I" in Morse?
Their sig designator is broken, just one of the many differences built in by design by Billy Gates...
Horses for courses. L/h drills work well on 'studs' that have broken below the surface because of fatigue, or overstressing. They don't work so well on studs that are well rusted or corroded. On those they tend to just drill a hole, without 'grabbing' firmly enough to break the rust bond. Tip. Not many of us have a set of l/h drills, but you can get similar results, if mot better, on studs that are not badly corroded, by grinding the point of a r/h drill to 'cut' in a l/h direction, and running it in reverse. Mike.
'swhat I did. A replacement caliper was only twenty five quid at the time ...
Ian
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.