Report on Vacuum Bleed Kit

I promise I would report back when I'd used the vacuum bleed kit.
I used it this morning, before it got too hot!, to charge the fluid on
my wife's Smart Car.
As suggested (I think by Mr Cheerfull), a bit of grease) was applied to the threads of the nipples. I cleaned them, applied some grease, (without removing them), around the point where they enter the cylinder. The only, minor, issue, none of the rubber adapters fitted the nipples but the end of the plastic tube did and sealed fine. 'Senior Management' was tasked with keeping the master cylinder topped up as I operated the gizmo.
Seeing the difference in old and new wasn't easy- the old fluid was very clean. But I pumped until I was sure, discarded, pumped some more, and checked what I'd collected with my brake fluid moisture meter.
A final pump the 'old fashioned way' using the pedal and all done, moved to next wheel.
I didn't note how long it took, nor did I rush it, but I'd say about an hour and a half at a guess.
The vacuum pump was about £10 off Ebay. Having done the same job the old fashioned way in the past, I'd say it was marginally easier with the pump.
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On 08/07/2018 12:17, Brian Reay wrote:

Sounds good. I was happy with my set until the lid of the pot got worn and leaked, then I moved on to the pro quality pressure kit (having borrowed one for an awkward job)
The only thing I would add, if I didn't before, is to use the vacuum pump to empty the master cylinder first, then refill with fresh fluid, before starting the bleed sequence. It saves getting such a strong mix of old with new and speeds the process.
So far, every car I have checked with the electronic moisture detector has been fine!! But it is only a handful up to now.
My MoT station is not testing the brake fluid, seems that Vosa (or whatever they are now called) has not actually issued an edict on it.
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On 08/07/2018 12:38, MrCheerful wrote:

Also, if you have a fluid operated clutch , you also need to change the fluid on that, and if the reservoir is shared it may be best to do the clutch before the brakes (again because of mixing old and new fluid)
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On 08/07/18 12:40, MrCheerful wrote:

The Smart Car is an Automatic but thank you, I've another vehicle (a Ducato X250 ) which will need doing before long. I don't know if the clutch is cable.
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On 08/07/2018 13:01, Brian Reay wrote:

I know almost nothing about smart cars :)
On a motorbike the reservoirs would likely be separate anyway.
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On 08/07/18 13:27, MrCheerful wrote:

Interesting little beasts. We bought one for towing (on a trailer) an have come to love it. It replaced a Picanto, which my wife adored, and was a great little car but, while we could have towed it, the Smart leaves more margin. The automatic took a bit of getting used too, mainly as all our other vehicles were manual. However, since we've changed the other vehicles, the only manual we have is the motorhome. I'm almost an automatic convert, something I thought would never happen.
Working on the Smart engine is a bit fiddly but it only needs oil, filter, and similar changes etc. These days I wouldn't do anything more involved. In the past I've rebuilt engines but that was in the days we bought older cars etc. I've not done that kind of thing for years. I'd replace brake discs/shoes etc but my days of serious jobs are behind me. I enjoy doing a bit of basic stuff but, especially since my stroke, I can't be doing with crawling around under cars etc.

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On 08/07/2018 12:40, MrCheerful wrote: <snip>>

AIUI they had to include contaminated brake fluid as a major fail: it's a EU-wide requirement. But they have kept the instruction that reservoir caps shouldn’t be removed. Looks like someone has may have learnt to play the game the way the French, Italians etc have for many a year ;)
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On 08/07/18 13:23, Robin wrote:

Oh dear, Tim will call you a Brexiteer for comments like that ;-)
Actually, wonder if "MOTs" (or equivalent) are even found in all EU countries. While I appreciate the US isn't in the EU, they don't have an MOT, just a 'SMOG test' and I'm not even sure that is universal in all states. Yet US safety standards are rather demanding, at least for new cars.
The US do have 'construction and use' rules but, as far as I know based on discussions with American friends, cars aren't routinely inspected other than for emissions. You certainly see some vehicles, ranging from 'clunkers' to custom monsters which would collect enough 'points' here in a single stop to ruin your day ;-)
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<snip> >Actually, wonder if "MOTs" (or equivalent) are even found in all EU

A mate just had the UK Mini he had shipped out to Spain fail the MOT because of the headlights not dipping the right way.
(So, 'yes' in Spain at least).
Cheers, T i m
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On 08/07/2018 13:36, Brian Reay wrote:

I think inspection depends on state.
Yup. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_inspection_in_the_United_States
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On Mon, 9 Jul 2018 08:19:11 +0100

eone has

Generally regarded as not needed, as calamitous vehicle breakdown is not a significant cause of accidents.
Their words, not mine.
In Michigan, sale of a 2nd hand car requires a Pass on an emissions test. I bought my car while I was in Michigan and the car was in Kentucky. Amazing.
--
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On 08/07/18 12:38, MrCheerful wrote:

Sorry, I didn't mention that I did that. I don't recall if you mentioned it but I saw it somewhere, although even doing it the old fashioned way it was the normal process. In the past I used an old Turkey Baster. That way you are, essentially, just flushing the slave cylinders (at each wheel), the pipes, and any junctions etc. The master cylinder has, mostly, been replaced, just the dregs have to be sucked through.
In retrospect, some of the pressure ones I looked at which fix over the master cylinder couldn't have fitted on the Smart Car. Even topping up the master cylinder needed a 'special' gizmo- a funnel with a bit of plastic pipe. Ones with a 'remote' fluid container would probably be OK.
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On 08/07/2018 12:57, Brian Reay wrote:

If you think that is bad then check out a freelander clutch master. They come ready filled as a spare part, they hold two thimbles worth of fluid and are seriously hard to see, let alone reach.
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On 08/07/2018 13:29, MrCheerful wrote:

With a plastic pipe connecting master and slave :-).
neighbour had one where the plastic pipe was routed too close to something and eventually rubbed through and lost all the fluid.
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We had Sherpa V8 vans at work ages ago. One did just that. Idling in a traffic jam on a hot day, the plastic clutch pipe melted. No clips or anything missing. By looking at the other two vans.
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Not much use to me. I want a system I can use on my own.
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*Drugs may lead to nowhere, but at least it's the scenic route *

Dave Plowman snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk London SW
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On 08/07/2018 14:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I never found it a problem, the vacuum pulls against a fluid container, it is simple to see how much is in it, and therefore when you need to top up the master, a little ingenuity could rig a self refill system if you were desperate.
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On 08/07/2018 14:19, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

I'm sure you could use it on your own. The master cylinder doesn't 'drain' that quickly but I was concerned, not having used this method, that it may, so I used Senior Management to check it as she was around. I didn't want to have to start over.
I'm not suggesting this vacuum system is the best, just reporting what I found.
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On Sun, 08 Jul 2018 12:17:58 +0100, Brian Reay wrote:

Ah, Smart Car. I'd have been very surprised if you'd had any issues using a vacuum pump on one of those. It's cars with long wheelbases where you may struggle, cos you're dragging so much more fluid out with those.

If you have someone to operate the brake, why on earth did you bother mucking about with a vacuum pump??
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On Sun, 8 Jul 2018 13:43:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom

Really? Struggle? 'So much more fluid'?

It was the final action. Why on earth didn't you bother to read properly.
Cheers, T i m
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