re:Different ways to bleed the clutch

this ford clutch needs bleed once a month,,, 3 weeks after bleding it still works BUT then between week 4 and 6 it need bleed again ....keep in mind theres no fluid leak ..the clutch just gets a air bubble from some where...... you can email me any info you might know

snipped-for-privacy@mjwebsitedesign.com WROTE Different ways to bleed the clutch Group: alt.trucks.ford Date: Wed, Apr 5, 2006, 11:51pm From: snipped-for-privacy@mjwebsitedesign.com (tomcas) If your newer Ford or Mazda hydraulic clutch isn't leaking fluid out, but has so much trapped air in it that the clutch barely disengages, then there are several ways to bleed the air out. Reverse Fluid Injection is supposed to be one of the best ways but if you don't first flush out the slave cylinder you will end up shooting all that crappy fluid and seal dust up into the master cylinder and reservoir, likely causing more problems. Invariably, if you go to bleed this crappy fluid out the slave bleeder by the old two person pump and bleed method, you will only make things worst, and end up with a complete air bomb. This air bomb is in the master cylinder, which is at angle precisely the wrong direction for air removal. Vacuum bleeders are suppose to work most times, but not all the time in releasing this trapped air. You could demount the master cylinder but that's a royal pain. This is the point where many mechanics attach a device, which pressurizes the reservoir with fluid. It's a little messy but it works. A cheaper way is to fill a simple pump oilier with brake fluid and squirt it down into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while a helper slowly releases the clutch pedal. You have to hold the oilier flex line tightly into the hole but you will feel it filling the master cylinder each time your helper release the clutch. I found this method so effective that reverse bleeding was not needed. If reverse filling is needed there is a very simple way an MGB enthusiast came up with. Fill length tubing with brake fluid and connect it from the clutch slave cylinder bleeder to the closest brake cylinder bleeder (pre flushed of course). Open both up and pump the brake a few times checking occasionally not to empty the brake reservoir, nor to overflow the clutch reservoir. I hope this helps some.

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THEBOSSWORKS2
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tomcas
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Whitelightning

Are you saying that even when the slave shows absolutely no signs of external fluid leakage, nor are there any signs of fluid in the bell housing, that the slave cylinder can in this case cause air ingestion?

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tomcas

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