Sticky ignition key on car - Fiat Bravo/Brava

run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)

Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.

Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any oily contamination can catch fire.

sponix

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

Yes, it is the original key - or rather one of the two original keys. I am going to try and dig out the other one. The one I curently use is the second one I used after the fob broke off the first one.

Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go :)

Hellraiser...........>

So is the steel the key is made from!! It's the flammability of the oil that's a problem, not it's electrical properties. Graphite will be fine.

Graphite powder won't seep into the switch mechanism like oil will.

If the key is sticking then either the key is wrong (poorly cut or worn) or the lock is worn.

Try ebay-you may find a brand new lock/key for not a lot of money.

sponix

I agree on the flamability. Better to use Servisol Switch Lube. The trouble is that you don't really know if the problem is the lock cylinder, the steering lock mechanism - or the switch. Ideally they should each be treated differently. Oil on alloy barrels can form a sludgy gum.

John

Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40? The solvent carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it cleans things. I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

Dave

WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant. But it's not a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered graphite.

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss, or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the key to work. A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C (and even lower)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant at all is used on ignition key barrels.

Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same - but in her case it's definetely the key.

I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? Is it available in aerosol form?

Cheers,

I don't have a downer on WD40, far from it I think it's great!

However, over many years of working on cars I have been advised never to use any sort of liquid lubricant on ignition barrels. (A number of car fires have started due to the ignition switch overheating.)

sponix

Not quite. A plastic puffer package. Think of the little green containers for Resin W wood glue - a bit like that, but smaller. Typically no more than a couple of quid.

As far as I know you can buy it in a little 'puffer' bottle.

sponix

I understand completely the reasoning behind not using WD40. However, every winter for perhaps 30 or more years I have sprayed it in to my car locks perhaps once a month. Some of the cars I have owned for 6 years. I have

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale anywhere. (Not that it has been top of my shopping list though!)

I think most do. Once the lock has reached the point of jamming I would consider replacement is the best option.

Chris

Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for sub frames and body panels!

Interestingly, the last small yale padlock I had recommended WD40.

I was always told FIAT stood for Fix It Again Tomorrow :-)

Dave