Tightening spindle nut - Mazda specs here (new thread)

There are two models available for 1989, you need to establish the exact model, if you can, get to a dealer and ask them.

99 times out of 100 a staked nut means it is done up very tight and the bearing is the prespaced type, BUT you should check with a dealer for safety's sake.

Mrcheerful

It's surely moderately easy to check if the nut is supposed to be loose

- take the other wheel off and feel.

The torque setting that you have marked with the arrow refers to the front of the car

Clues are front wheel drive on the book cover and Driveshaft retaining nut

As to the tightness of the rear bearing retaining nut, as you ordered the nut from a main dealer why not call and ask them?

Tony

I am the OP. I was going to compare the other nut just as you suggest but then I realised that I would have to get a new nut for the other wheel.

I say this because the anti-slip ring inside the nut and staking of the outer may have worn the ability of the other wheel's nut to stay on.

I understand I need a new nut each time I remove the previous one.

The garage who looked at the brakes put back the the one they took off (and so did the people who did my brakes shoes some time ago).

Not necessarily so. If the threads have siezed/oxidised or otherwise caused the nut to tighten you would have trouble with gauging by how tight it was. What you could do is count the number of turns for the nut to come away from the studding and then replace the same nut to the same number of turns and gauge if you had the same tightness before trying the other nut (on the other side) to the same number of turns.

The manual for my Escort advises against using the same nuts twice.

4

Mt Cheerful, I guess what you say is underlined by the fact that the old nut is stripped and that would not have happened by moderate tightening.

UNLESS ... it has never been replaced from new and each time the brake shoes were changed (over the 85,000 miles) the old nut was put back on.

UNLESS ... some monkey somewhere along the line was so clueless that he tightened a nut to stripping point when it didn't need much tightening at all. The spindle nut size is exactly the same size as the heads of the wheel bolts and I now have visions of a powered air wrench crunching the spindle nut on as well as the wheel bolts.

Hmmm. Maybe the fact the old nut is stripped is not such a useful clue after all.

Yes, that seems the best way. I hope that the parts department have that info as I am not sure thatthe workshop will want to dig that out out of some old archived manual.

As for calling Mazda UK, the last time I did this had to wait for over 20 minutes to get to someone technical.

er allright lar, you cud try doin' it the Merseyside way like, if ya too sjkint to get yerself a tork rench and that like or to idle to consult a book like you know wot I mean?

Erm try some science for size an' see me above post like mate. Best I can do like unless you want me to go ask Mick like, but he's maybe gonna want a backhander. But he nose his stuff and if he don't he nose someone who duz.

gud luk.

Not so on the front wheels of the RWD Volvo 300 series, however.

Alex wrote in news:Xns9894ADA4C699571F3M4@127.0.0.1:

Is this any use? It gives front and back if you look carefully.

Front Back Ftlbs/Nm Ftlbs/Nm Relevant bit - 1990-94 323 ................. 205/277 152/206 1986-89 323 ................. 144/196 MAA

MAA = Tighten locknut to 18-22 ft-lbs/25-29 Nm. Turn the hub 2-3 times. Loosen the locknut and finger tighten. Turn the locknut until torque to turn hub with a spring scale attached to a lug stud is 1.3-

4.3 in-lbs/.15-.50 kg. Stake locknut.

Tunku wrote in news:Xns9895DAA8671F0stuartggraydslpipexc@216.196.109.145:

Bad form an' all, ignore the relevant bit placing it's crap. Look at the MAA description.

Well take the brake drum off and look then. A sealed-unit bearing with a spacer in will be an integral item living deep in the heart of the drum. Non-sealed race beariings will live separate lives at either side of the drum and will come out with careful prodding. The outer one will look like, if cleaned up, it would make a good bracelet for a small child.

Time for another glass of red wine I think. :-)

My Mini had ball bearings with outer races drifted into the hub body, spacers both between the inner and outer races and castellated nuts that you did up to high torques against the spacers, front and rear. They weren't sealed-unit or integral. They came out with careful thumping with a hammer and piece of pipe. So I think it's more complicated than that, although I don't know how you tell definitively which sort you have either. I have less experience of disassembling the "adjustable" sort.