I have a 1979 Chev K10 with front wheel locking hubs.
The locknut and spindle thread (at the outer edge) has been partially
stripped. The thread that is not damaged is still usable. I cannot
remove the inner adjusting not because of the stripped portion. I have
tried to grind the stripped thread away (protecting the good thread by
undoing the adjusting nut up to the stripped thread) using carbide
grinding bits. All I have achieved is destroying the bits and polishing
the stripped thread.
I cannot use a steel file because the access is limited.
How can I remove the stripped thread? I believe the spindle is forged
steel. I have contemplated using a cold steel chisel, but do not want
to attempt until I have more info on possible solutions.
Hoping someone can help
in your local hardware store they should sell small metal files. around
5"-6" long. sometimes they are 2 or 3 sided.
what were you using the carbide grinding bits in?
a die gringer prehaps....ya just can't beat a grinding stone.
your next choice is to heat the nut with a torch. but just the nut. as it
expands the inside diameter will become bigger and may climb over the
Lots of people here haven't had the pleasure of working on a 4 wheel drive
with a solid axle in the front, you don't know how lucky you are lol..
The bearing adjust and lock nut are recessed about 2 inches inside rotor
hub. The axle shaft extends about 3-4 inches past that and slides into the
locking hub when its placed on the end of the rotor hub and bolts to the hub
NAPA used to carry "split" thread dies for trucks. The die is two piece
with an o-ring around the outsides in a groove, the pieces slipped over the
thread and then a socket is placed over the halves. Un Threading the die
repairs the thread on the axle spindle. While the bearing surface area is
hardened the thread area is not. Problem is the tool is as expensive if not
more than my next suggestion.
The cheapest next method is to get a used rotor/hub assembly. The
rotors/hub assembles are two piece on this set up, pressing the wheel studs
in holds the two together If your rotor is better than the used one, take
it to a machine shop and have them press the old studs out. Install new
studs when mating the rotor and hub, and have them pressed in once you get
the assembly off the truck. With used assembly in hand, you can cut the end
of the hub off the old one, a pipe cutter works well, and then using a cut
off wheel on a die grinder cut the bearing nuts in two. Once removed the
threads can be repaired. If the threads are really bad. the spindle
assembly on the axle can be replaced, its held on with 8 bolts. This should
be removed when brake work is done to inspect and re-pack the inner spindle
axle bearing and replace its seal. This is the only bearing that supports
the outside end of the axle. It can only be gotten to by removing the
spindle. In a cheat, NAPA makes a tool for greasing this bearing. It
threads onto the spindle and has a grease fitting, use a grease gun, hand
not air powered and pump it till clean grease comes out the back of the
spindle. Too much pressure will blow the seal out of place, its not much
more than an over sized rubber band, Also with the spindle housing off, you
can check the u-joints on the front axle shafts. The axles on most front
diffs will slide out at this point. One more thing, mark the spindle to
axle housing, install as it came off. Sometimes there will be what appears
to be a thin metal gasket between the two, make sure it goes on exactly as
it came off, and no sealer, its a tapered shim, not a gasket, and not all
will have it.
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