Shock replacements

My '97 is due for replacing the shocks, and I've got them all ready, sitting in my garage. Since my life is somewhat hectic, to say the least, I'm not sure if I'd be able to find time enough in a weekend to do all 4. I was wondering if there is any reason why I couldn't do the rears one weekend and the fronts the next. Anybody have any ideas?

Thanks.

Reply to
Mark
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That shouldn't be a problem. You do probably want to try to get both sides (front or rear) done together. If you only get one shock done, handling could get a bit interesting.

Reply to
Grant Edwards

That is exactly what I did, replaced the rears one weekend, ran out of time, and then did the fronts the next weekend, no problems.

The fronts can take quite a bit longer than the rears if you haven't done this job before.

Pat

Reply to
pws

Glad to hear what I thought was a sensible approach actually is. Then I'll be replacing my rear shocks this weekend. I've never done shock replacement before, so I'm glad I don't have to rush it to try to get all 4 corners done. I'll just have to drop by the local AutoZone and borrow their spring compressor.

Thanks.

Reply to
Mark

There are two or three different methods for doing the shock replacement (particularly for the front). The factory method requires an alignment after you're done. There are a couple other methods that don't. My advice is to carefylly study all of the methods before you start, so you know what your options are.

And don't forget to put all of the washer/spacer thingys back in with the new shocks. It's pretty annoying when you've just finished getting the new shock in and discover it has to come back out...

Reply to
Grant Edwards

Have you used a spring compressor before? If not, make sure that you get hold of the spring coils as far apart as possible. The first time I tried, I was only compressing a couple of coils, not enough to get them loose. Also, really make sure that everything is secure and even on both sides and stays that way during the entire process. It's not complicated, but it is worth taking your time with.

That is a lot of stored energy once they are compressed, easily enough to maim or kill a person, but I have done it 12 times and I am still here. If you already know all of this, well, maybe it will help somebody else. :-)

Good luck,

Pat

Reply to
pws

Please don't remind me. I can still hear my howls of frustration when I thought I was done with my Koni shocks and then saw one white plastic spacer on the ground.

Pat

Reply to
pws

I know the theory, but no, I've never used a spring compressor before (or replaced shocks). So it will be a learning experience. I will admit that I have this picture in my mind of me with a spring protruding from my chest. For some reason my wife didn't find that particularly funny. So if I don't post a follow up on Monday, then y'all can assume my picture came true!

Reply to
Mark

The main thing is to make absolutely certain that the lips of the spring compressor are completely engaging the springs, that the two pieces are on exact opposite sides of each other, and then alternate frequently from side to side when removing and installing the springs.

The lips won't be at equal points on the spring on each side, this isn't possible because of the coil, but the goal is to keep everything straight with no outward bending of the spring.

A padded vise or a wood vise workbench like a Black & Decker can be helpful, the assembly gets fairly heavy once you have those thick metal compressors attached.

If it makes the wife more comfortable, a good shop should switch your springs onto your new shocks for a fairly low price. A well-equipped shop will have a clamp-style spring compressor, an expensive and much-desired automotive tool by me, and it makes the swap fast and easy compared to the threaded bolt style compressors.

Pat

Reply to
pws

Many good notes above, I'd echo the safety issue, good common sense is important on this job. A couple other things worth mentioning though. The first time I did this I did not have an air tool and I turned those sobs (spring compressors) by hand (bad idea). You'll want an air ratchet. Also, allot of threads don't even mention the shock boots. In an old car they can be pretty much crapped out and that isn't really cool as they perform an important dust shield job. Prices vary widely. I think I've seen everything from 2 for $30 to $25 each, maybe even more variation than that. There are differences based on model year so don't assume anything. I believe you can check the condition of yours by jacking up a wheel. With the suspension hanging down you can get a decent look at them to see if they've deteriorated or are badly dry rotted. You can probably check one front and one rear and safely assume the other side will be matching.

Chris

99BBB
Reply to
Chris D'Agnolo

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