I am doing a front and rear Brake Job. It is all straight forward, but I
have a slight problem. I have a set of PBR Metal Master Brake Pads. I have
pressed the pistons in all the way but the Pads are too thick. Has anyone
else run into this problem and what have you done? I plan to run the pads on
a large belt sander at work and reduce the thickness. I am following the
Mercedes CD procedure, but this thickness problem threw a wrench in the
Thanks for any input...
The pads a not too thick. The piston just looks like it's pushed in all the
way, but it can go further. Either get a caliper spreader, or get the
largest damn flathead screwdriver you can find, and press on the inner edge
of the piston (be very careful not to damage the piston, I didn't think of
it until now, but maybe use a small piece of wood to protect the piston). I
thought I had run into the same problem, but I just hadn't pushed my pistons
in enough. BTW - you using paste and shims on the rear?
Your PRB metal master pads should have the part # D311RM on the box. I
recommend that you only retract a single piston at a time. I use a pair of
channel locks on the top of the old pad. Grab the top of the old pad and the
caliper with your channel locks. Press the pad and piston in as far a
possible. If you still can't get your new pad in try this..Using a flat blade
screwdriver, press against the old pad and the outer edge of the rotor. Do
this carefully as you don't want to nick the outer edge of the rotor. This
should help you get your pistons fully retracted.
Bill, I have used Metal Master for 10 years now... I would recommend this to
anyone who wants better stopping power, long lasting and dustless.
OEM pads stinks in performance.
I also suggest everyone to change their brake fluids every two years.
Better clue in those befuddled engineers at Mercedes about "better stopping
power." They should be VERY interested.
425 White Horse Pike
Brake pad materials have improved in the past few years and some of the newer
compounds are superior to the OEM materials. Metal Master pads are actually
one of the older style brake compounds which use sintered metal with a binder.
Bill, I've been using Metal Master pads for more like 15 years all several
different Mercedes. While the factory pads stop well, they also wear out
quickly, chew up rotors and generate lots of dust. The Metal Master pads don't
seem to stop the car any faster then the factory pad and they don't take out
the rotors as quickly. However, they do last several times longer than the
factory pad. They also seem to generate a lot more heat than the factory pad
due to their high metal content which takes out the caliper seals on my 123
chassis cars. I find myself rebuilding calipers every 65,000 or so miles.
Befuddled engineers at Mercedes? I don't think so but the factory pads still
don't last very long. Switching to a metallic pad is a trade off between
increased pad life and decreased caliper seal life.
And thanks for all the input. I got a stack of washers and will try to
get the piston pushed back further. I tried to get onto PBR's Web Site and
see what the difference is between the part # D311RM and part # D113M. If it
is a thickness difference, then I was sold the wrong ones. Working 12 hour
shifts right now and I won't be able to get back to this project till Wed
6/23 after 5pm.
I am doing all 4 Wheels with the Metal Masters. Glad to see that this
will make for better pad life, but not looking forward to changing out the
seals in the pistons. Time will tell...I am not that aggressive a driver...
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