'brake lining wear' warning

You do not have a 00' year model. When you use the Prime Symbol ' after a number, it denotes FEET. When you use ' as an apostrophe, you are using it to replace what you are removing. Do not becomes don't. 2000 becomes '00.

The pad life warning light comes on when the edge of the rotor cuts into the sensor and grounds the circuit. If the rotor is worn to the minimum thickness, the light comes on sooner and the pads are thicker. If the rotors were replaced on your last pad change, the light comes on with very little pad life left.

So in reality, this question cannot be answered with any true time or mileage figures. Get the brakes replaced as soon as you can. You do not want the pads to reach the metal backing and ruin the rotors. You also do not want to turn MB rotors. MB only gives you 1mm of wear per side of each rotor. Do not use MB rotors below the wear limit!

As a MB dealer mechanic for 29 years, I can tell you NO pads stop as good as factory MB pads. There are pads out there that promise no brake dust, but they fade when hot, do not stop when cold, squeak like a son of a bitch, or just plain suck all around.

Along the same lines- my '81 (did I do that right?) 380 SL rear brake pads have a high pitch squeal, but only when backing slowly. It stops on a dime with no squeal. Also it has a LOT of brake dust, fore and aft. Should I get them checked and do factory pads have a lot of inherent dust?

Chip

Front Mercedes brake pads has tons of dust... it doesn't matter what model you got. The rear Mercedes brake pads has almost no dust.

Currently on the market, Akebono Euro Pads is the best... no dust and stops great in all conditions. It is on the pricy side but nowhere near factory brake pad price at the dealer.

I get the idea from Karl's experience I have done so myself. However, I hate factory pads, not just because of dust, but the performance is real bad too. If you want all around good performance and much less dust, it would be the PBR Ultimate Ceramic Pads... I think generally speaking ceramic pads are great... regardless of brand.

The PBR Metal Master is a great performer but also old tech... tried and true... however, this sucks on the first stop... especially when cold... However, once warmed up from the first stop, it is an outstanding pad.

For most people, I would say go for the Akebono Euro Brake pads... if that is too pricy, then try the PBR Ultimate... if that is too pricy, then go for the PBR Plus or Raybestos QS.

I have not checked how much are OEM MB pads yet, but I used to buy OEM stuff for my Subarus and their prices were quite competitive with 3rd party stuff. Is it in a range of $200 per axle?

BTW, I look at the price a little bit different way - 50K miles takes about $7,500 on gas expenses and $500 on tires plus another $500 spent on oil. paying $50 more or less on brake pads is just insignificant.

does not supply them :-(.

Is it what you mean? - I found these Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads here

Would would be the best from following selection: Thx, Andy

Thanks for correction and explanation - I was always confused where to put an apostrophe (I am not a native speaker). Now I just know that it replaces fist common digits. Follow-up question - is it correct to write '8 for 2008?

The car got 90K miles on it, I will just open it up to see what the shape rotors are in?

I realize that. I hope I have a several weeks of driving though as I do not want to rush into replacing with things under pressure yet do some research on the topic.

Thx for all the advice - is it feasible to DIY (I change pads in my Subaru and Yamaha FZ-1 bike). Is there anything tricky in MB about changing rotors/pads or some caveat or things easy to mess up?

I use OEM pads for my Subarus too however I found out that in turn factory rotors are just prone for warping. Once I switched to some plain Brembo rotors problems are gone

- we drive with my wife about 40K miles a year together so certain stuff like pads, tires are used up quickly family wise. So if it comes to replacing rotors, would that work for MB? Andy

I have not changed the brakes on my Mercedes yet, but I have done brakes on my VW Jetta I used to have, and on my wife s Honda civic, along with various trucks that my dad owns. Disc brakes are fairly easy to replace, as you mention you have done it already on other vehicles. The rear pads may be a bit tricky, but fronts are straight forward in all the ones I have seen. I say go for it.

Concerning the apostrophe issue, 2008 would be 08, to keep with the same convention. Ironically, my apostrophe is not working on this keyboard anymore. Strange bug, that I have not identified yet, (running Xubuntu 7.01 on my laptop). You do not realize how many apostrophes you use until they stop working. (Thus, the lack of contractions in my post).

Yes, those are the pads I am talking about.

If you think those prices are OK, you'll get along well with the dealers. $200 per axle for brake pads for a Subaru? You've got to be kidding. I've replaced brake pads on my benz and half a dozen other cars and never payed even 25% of that for pads.

://tinyurl.com/2nkaos.

I've gotten pads for both ends of my subaru for 25% of that. They were not great pads, but worked well enough.

I put 35 dollar pads on the front of my 300D a few months ago, and they stop as well as my new MR2, which is pretty well. The braking is the only impressive dynamic ability of that car.

Bill

I was asking if the MB OEM are in that range - someone wrote here that they are expensive and someone else told me he heard of spending $800 brake job in MB dealership - so I figured $200 must be single axle pads. BTW I paid $75 for Subaru OEM front pads at dealership several times.

I am just 2 weeks MB owner and it is a new warld for me.

A.

$800 brake job at the dealer includes new rotors... which dealer always want to change regardless of age and mileage.

I think factory pads are $126.47 a set for front. This can be had for $85 online.

The best source of Mercedes parts are... autohausaz.com... which has best prices. Rusty's buymbparts.com is reliabe for all MB parts.

thx for all the info and references.

Andy