It is 100% vacuum operated.
There is/was NO delay ever built in to cool off the turbo. THAT delay was a sign
something was wrong and you have a small leak in the vacuum system. Now it has a
major leak and it
won't shut off the engine.
Thanks Karl, I will have to look for the vacuum leak. This is a friends
car, is there alot of vacuum operated things on this car? Is there a
vacuum diagram that someone can help me with? I have an 85 Volvo 240
Turbo that I have restored and vacuum leaks are a major sorce to alot of
problems. Thanks, Charlie
On your 126 body, there is only 3 circuits that run off engine-made vacuum: the
the climate control, and the transmission shift quality. When you have a major
leak in the climate
control, all the air blows out the defrost......
By the brake booster area, look for rubber Tee with small vacuum lines in it.
Each plastic vacuum
line is color coded for the system it affects. Red and green is climate control,
brown is engine
shut-off. Plug off the red and green ones on the engine side. In other words,
stop the vacuum from
going into the car. Don't unplug a red line or a green line and cap that line,
you have to stop the
vacuum coming from the source.
Now you should only have the brown line connected to the Tee. Start the car,
then shut it off. Does
it shut off instantly? If yes, your vacuum leak in in the dash. If no, go to the
diaphragm on the
rear end of the injection pump and pull off the brown w/stripe line off and feel
for vacuum in the
line. Does it have vacuum? If yes, you have a blown shut-off diaphragm. If no,
you have a bad vacuum
switch on the steering lock [highly unlikely] or a bad vacuum pump [but if you
had a bad pump, you
would have complained of no power brake assist].
Best tool to check everything with is a hand-held vacuum tester like Mighti-Vac
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