Temporary seal for leaking carbs

There is a glue sold at hardware stores called Seal-All. It is in a yellow tube with red letters.

This stuff works excellent on gas leaks, even active leaks. It does stick best to clean and dry though.

It takes about 5 minutes to set up and lasts about 8 months to a year from my experience.

It is a thick gell and it will peel off easy when you want to do the proper fix later.

I have poured the stuff onto a square of cardboard and just held the cardboard to an active 1/4" hole leak in a gas tank and it held. I have done that fix several times.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

js148 wrote:

first, any particular leak? gasoline......air? the SU carbs have a shabby throttle shaft to body bearing design. these have gotten so worn on some units we've used copper fittings' ferrules and used small springs to hold them in place.

fuel? do you mean from the bottom or the float? gaskets for the bottom. most of my work was with the TC and TF. maybe the carbs are different.

the SU carbs and lucas electrics are Britain's way of getting back at USA for the boston tea paerty . good luck, sammm

Permatex probably makes something that would fit your need. I bought a little can of High Tack Gasket Sealant to use in rebuilding my carb. The stuff is ultra tacky and "gasoline resistant". If you cleaned the area around the leak really well so that no oil, dirt or dust is present and then applied several coats of this stuff, it may get the job done providing the leak is not highly pressurized. It comes out of the can with a consistency of contact cement and quickly dries to a consistency somewhat like a spill of blackberry jam that has been sitting out for a few days, very stiff and tacky.

A four ounce can of the stuff cost me less than $3US. It comes with an applicator brush.

Jack

js148 wrote:

Oh, now that's not necessarily true. Lucas electrics of the pre-'90s, sure, but the company has changed hands often enough (and is now owned by TRW) that their stuff is about on par with all the other OEMs of vehicle switches and such. SU carburetors work great when they are in proper repair and proper tune. I'm about to put a pair of them on my Slant-6 '62 Dodge.

-Stern

On Thu, 27 May 2004 13:00:21 -0400, "Daniel J. Stern" wrote: || SU carburetors work great when they are in proper ||repair and proper tune. I'm about to put a pair of them on my Slant-6 '62 ||Dodge. || ||-Stern

You're a Retro kinda guy, aren't you Dan? Texas Parts Guy

I just wanna see jawdrops at both the Mopar meets *and* the Britcar meets, all with just the one car. *evil grin*

-Stern

||On Thu, 27 May 2004, Rex B wrote: || ||>> SU carburetors work great when they are in proper repair and proper ||>> tune. I'm about to put a pair of them on my Slant-6 '62 Dodge. || ||> You're a Retro kinda guy, aren't you Dan? || ||I just wanna see jawdrops at both the Mopar meets *and* the Britcar meets, ||all with just the one car. *evil grin*

Why stop there. Go with a dedion rear axle from an Alfa. A Wilson preselector gearbox would be a nice touch also :)

I bet you'd enjoy this

Parts Guy

No thanks. But if I could figure out how to put a Laycock de Normanville overdrive on the back of the Torqueflite, I'd do it!

Thanks for all the advice (and pseudo-advice). On closer investigation, I was wrong and it's not leaking at the jet seal. It's definitely leaking at the float connection so I'm going to replace just those seals because it doesn't require taking apart the carbs. Worth a shot.

Meanwhile, I picked up some of the Seal-All just in case. ;-)

Thanks.