I was hoping that someone could recommend a possible solution to my
Rover's seeking idle problem. First off its a European 1995 Rover Mini
with a 1.3L SPI engine. I don't believe the MK designation is the same
here as is there but its a 5 speed with 2 dummy lights (Oil, Battery).
The problem is that the idle when I'm stopped will fluctuate between
normal and 2000rpm and then occasionally stall the engine. Whats worse
is that occasionally the idle will rev up and stick at 3000 rpms but can
be fixed by either turning off the engine for a second or revving the
engine up to 5k or so and then the idle settles back down. Its a new
problem that started after I fixed the thermostat and only happens after
the engine is warm. With the stuck thermo it never happened. I
appreciate any help, you guys were great when I was fixing my
headlights. Seeking Idle
Yes, I would go for that also Jono, I would also check the
throttle body and give it a good clean out with carb cleaner, also clean the
switch on the side of the throttle body,,
One quick question,,, is the temp gauge working correctly,,,, if not,,change
the temp switch,,( the ECU might think the engine is cold and then switch to
cold start mode) this could also be the fault,
I believe the SPI has a switch somewhere near the gas pedal, so when the
pedal is not pressed down (engine idle), this switch tells the ECU to keep
the engine in idle.
Maybe worth checking if that switch is still OK?
These are one set of symptons for a leak in the Manifold Air Preasure
(MAP) sensor. The sensor is actually located inside the MEMS box (6
inch square aluminium box usually located near the front clutch side of
the engine bay with a great wad of wires coming out the bottom).
There is a thin plastic tube that comes out the back of the injector
body towards the firewall. You will need to remove air cleaner to
access it - if you have the standard air cleaner then there is a second
tube from the air cleaner box that leads to another point next to the
MAP line that will help you find where it connects. This tube goes to
a small black plastic box a little bigger than a match box (an oil trap
that is usually mounted near the clutch master cylinder), then a second
tube goes from this box to the bottom of the MEMS.
Check the rubber connectors on the ends of these tubes are not split or
perished, and that the tubes are firmly connected so as to not leak.
Also check that the tubes haven't been crushed or broken.
Another proble is when oil or fuel gets into the sensor inside them
MEMS. This why they have the separator on the line, but sometimes it
still gets past it. Take off the tube between the MEMS and the
separator and blow through it and check that no liquid comes out. If
there is, dab an absorbent rag or paper towel on the tube's connector
at the bottom of the MEMS and try to draw out any fluids that may be
John in Oz
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.