92' Stealth RT/TT Wiring System

My ECU burned out and I'm trying to find the problem. I got a new one and it worked for two days when the car died again. I've since replaced the ECU and I am ready to jump into the wiring system.

The things I do know are, both times it went out, I punched the accelerator when it was cold. The 24 hour period during the fist replaced ECU was fine. I drove it all day, city and hwy, here in LA with know problems. That includes plenty of sudden accelerations. It wasn't until the next morning, a block down the street, when it went out.

The other thing I know is, the dealer that sold the car to me told me that he took out the after-market alarm that was installed by the previous owner.

It wasn't until my ECU went out, 6 months after I bought it, that I peeped under the dash to find a bunch of loose, cut wires?most of which lead to nothing. This will be my starting point. But if anyone has any suggestions to how to trouble shoot the wiring system, this would be a big help.

Is there a way I can check for hot/surges/overload wires from the harness, going into the ECU without the ECU installed?

And why isn't the fuse box saving the ECU?

Thank you.

Reply to
Aidan
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The ECU uses both +12v and +5v. Some of the engine sensors use +5v too. I'd guess that chopping out the alarm and/or poor installation has provided a path for 12v (or a short to make more than +5v) on the 5v power rail. I don't know where the +5v is generated, but in a Talon, it appears to be from the ECU.

An ECU will run OKfor a while with a high +5v rail, but will eventually fail. You really need the schematics. Check with dsm.org, and the Mitsu

3000GT forums.

Stewart DIBBS

Reply to
Stewart DIBBS

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