OIL PRESSURE LOW 93 Eagle Talon 78000 miles

Ok I picked up a beautiful 1993 Eagle Talon, great shape runs fine, but heres my problem, which I have seen quit abit as I am researching today, the oil pressure gauge is flunctuating, I already did the obvious and changed the sending unit and the sensor, it seemed to do better it was right in the middle, runs great, but after about 15 to

20 minutes running it, it goes down again, almost to nothing, if I rum up the engine it will kick back up to where its suppose to be at but when at an idle and jumps right back down, I have changed the oil in, this car only has 78000 miles on it, I picked up from an auction, I am not keeping it, I bought it to sell but I do not want to sale it for someone else to half to deal with, thats not right, I have been told it cold be a clogged screen, oil pump, and of course the bearings, I don?t think it the bearings, the engine runs very strong, then I was told that the oil pump usually never goes out. So why am I writting, because after all the research I have come to the conclusion that this is common with this car, so now I would like to hear from people that said they got it fixed and this is what fixed it. PLEASE
Reply to
vaneck34
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I'm not certain that there is anything wrong. After 15 to 20 minutes of operation, your oil is hot and pressure drops. At 750 rpm idle, you should see 10 psi on a fully warmed up motor. If you rev the motor, the pump increases pressure. When rpm drops, again so does the pressure. I run a mechanical oil pressure gauge on my A-pillar and look at it all the time. Pressure varys with temperature and rpm and ranges from 10 to well over 100 psi.

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"vaneck34" wrote: > Ok I picked up a beautiful 1993 Eagle Talon, great shape runs > fine, but heres my problem, which I have seen quit abit as I > am researching today, the oil pressure gauge is flunctuating, > I already did the obvious and changed the sending unit and the > sensor, it seemed to do better it was right in the middle, > runs great, but after about 15 to 20 minutes running it, it > goes down again, almost to nothing, if I rum up the engine it > will kick back up to where its suppose to be at but when at an > idle and jumps right back down, I have changed the oil in, > this car only has 78000 miles on it, I picked up from an > auction, I am not keeping it, I bought it to sell but I do not > want to sale it for someone else to half to deal with, thats > not right, I have been told it cold be a clogged screen, oil > pump, and of course the bearings, I don't think it the > bearings, the engine runs very strong, then I was told that > the oil pump usually never goes out. So why am I writting, > because after all the research I have come to the conclusion > that this is common with this car, so now I would like to hear > from people that said they got it fixed and this is what fixed > it. [b:4c1e953cff]PLEASE[/b:4c1e953cff][b]

Thank you for your comment, I had the pressure checked yesterday and was told the pressure is great the lowest it went was 20 and the highest was 90 so I was told not to worry about it, this is a car I bought just to sell but I wanted to make sure that I wasn?t giving anyone allot of headaches, I bought the lucus yesterday also a 20/50 oil weight for it, I was told that was what to do in the summer, so we will see after that.

Reply to
vaneck34

Too much oil pressure is not a good thing. That Lucas snake oil and 20/50 are better suited to the gear box on someone's Civic.

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simpleton

Those are not your valves knocking. It's a hydraulic valve lash adjuster. There is a revised part that does not tick and it's an easy job.

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"The first version of lifters used on early 1Gs (possibly up to early 2Gs) had extremely small top holes. The second version had a top hole about 3-4 times larger, and a larger groove on the side. First version is on the left, second on the right. Note that the second version was also slightly shorter in total height than the first. The third and latest version (as of 2004) is the same total height as the first version, has a top hole the size of the second version, and a side oil feed hole larger than the first or second version for even more oil flow to the followers." "If you want to pick up lifters a lot cheaper than factory costs, the lifters I recently bought are not Mitsu packaged, they're made by TopLine. Apparently Mitsu buys the TopLine lifters and repackages them. I compared them to photos of Mitsu OEM "new" style lifters, and they appear identical. The shop selling them is down in Texas, and they sell a lot of items at wholesale prices. Here's the info: Prime Automotive Wholesale 2100 Regency Drive Irving, TX 75062 214-441-1500 Last time I bought them in late 2003, the price had increased a bit, to about $8-9 each, but still far less than factory cost. "

"Lurker" wrote in message news:%TLre.19777$ snipped-for-privacy@twister.nyroc.rr.com...

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