> I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1.8L, 120,000 miles. After I
> drive it for
> about a minute, the car will start hesitating, and when i get
> to a red light, it
> stalls out. After it stalls out, the car will not turn back
> on, it will
> crank, but not start. After 15 minutes, the car starts up
> again with
> absolutely no problems and is good to go. I've taken it to
> two Mitsubishi
> dealers and they recreate the problem, but have not been able
> to diagnose it.
> All belts, fuel filter, pcv valve, plugs, wires, distributor
> cap, and rotor have
> been replaced. The dealerships ruled out the fuel pump as
> being the problem.
> The computer is not throwing out any codes. Fuel injector
> pressure was checked
> as well. After replacing the PCV valve, the problem was gone
> for 3-4 weeks, but
> today it came back. The car has no EGR valve.
> A guy at Midas told me I may have a "vapor lock" problem, but
> I dont
> know anything about that. He said the fuel line is heating up
> fast while the
> engine is still cold, creating vapors in the lines that block
> the fuel from
> pumping through, and after it stalls and I let it sit for 15
> minutes, the
> temperatures equalize and the car is good to go again... He
> asked me if I had
> replaced any parts from the fuel system (like aftermarket
> modifications), but I
> have not, everything is stock.
> Anyone have any clue what this may be? please help! thanks
if you are still having trouble, you may want to focus on three items.
1. the ecm, if not repaired or replaced already, will have to be
replaced sooner or later. reason - defective capacitors in the ecm
will have gone bad, and leak acid that will ruin the ckt board and
other parts that it touches see this site for more info:
the caps (three i think, maybe two...) you will have to buy are easy
to find, but not "generic" - make sure they are a "lo-esr" cap.
2. the airflow sensor - located inside the air duct from the front of
the car. check the voltages up until the failure mode. try taking the
sensor out of the ckt and if possible subsitute a resistor to simulate
3. the distributor and/or coil. bad coil should be easy to diagnose.
if itís the pick-up in distributor will mean a $229 fix from your
local advance auto parts
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