306 xsi

can't help with the rest but you'd be better off removing these as i doubt they make any difference at all and if you dunno what they do you might as well set it up as standard and pay less on insurance.

Hello.

Cool. I like 306s.

Approximately zero, or at least as close to zero as would make any discernable difference. However as far as many insurance companies are concerned, mods like this mean that you drive like a tit so they load your premium accordingly whether it actually makes the car faster or not.

Yeah, mods, if you've got 'em, declare 'em. I don't fancy having my insurance company wash their hands of me and face paying the lifetime earnings of everyone in a bus que.

The flashyness of the indicators is normal, watch for every mid-late 90s (and possibly later) Peugeot and Citroen with a factory alarm doing exactly the same thing.

Alarm sirens are in a funny place that gets wet on 306s. Somewhere in one of the front wheelarches rings a bell. What tends to happen is the siren goes a bit mad so the owner disables it with a key switch under the bonnet.

Might be a lid on the key switch for the alarm? Have a pull at it and see.

Douglas

in news:d4lag0$3ij$ snipped-for-privacy@canard.ulcc.ac.uk, m slurred :

Well done. Good car. Of course the GTi6 is better.... :-)

Basically nothing. If my understanding is correct,'Power boost valves', increase the fuel rail pressure, and can make a slight difference on engines which run lean at high revs due to restrictive injectors, but the

2.0 lump in the XSi isn't one of them. The induction kit will not increase power - the standard Pug intake system is well designed, and not restrictive.

My recommendation would be to remove both of these modifications.

Although the chances of being found out when doing that is quite small, the potential liability is large. It seems a big risk for no real interim benefit.

If the PBV has been properly set up you'll probably find a slightly sharper response to the throttle, especially in the mid range.

If the airfilter has a decent nonrestrictive cold airfeed and fitted properly you might get a 1-2bhp increase at the top end. If it hasnt then you'll probably have lost 5bhp due to the hot air the engine is breathing.

Also on the bulkhead there should be an electrical device with black rubber cover on it- under the cover should be a key slot- insert key and turn and the siren should now work.

Fuel pump cut off switch. Press the rubber thing to reset.

Tim..

Approximately none. You may even end up reducing it slightly.

Yes, demodify it.

If you don't have the old airbox etc. then you oughtta be able to pick em up from your local scrapyard for almost nothing.

Is it the 2.0 8v (120bhp) or the 2.0 16v (135bhp) ?

If it's the 8v, you can find the same engine in any number of 405s, Xantias, etc.

You'll have dropped a few BHP.

Hello,

Absolutely NO power or performance increase is added by the added bits you describe, they are cosmetic modifications only. Boy racers that thrash the life out of low powered cars "think" they work as that's what the advertising tells them. You will find it performs better with standard equipment as that's what the engine was designed to operate with. The induction kit will suck in hot air from around the engine and decrease performance, the car will not even use the amount of air flow supplied by a standard paper type filter, so the induction kit does nothing. The "boost valve" is also a waste of money as it does nothing. Again, that is a cosmetic modification for boasting purposes. If you don't believe me, do a 0-60 then fit standard equipment and see that the time doesn't change. Taking all the silly boy racer bits off will improve your performance and MPG. It will also keep your insurance to a normal cost. I personally wouldn't touch a car that had been butchered like the one you have, it's probably had a good thrashing and been poorly treated. A lot of boy racer cars usually are. can't help with the other questions!

Thanks for the pointer but I could not find anything of that description, or otherwise, anywhere under the bonnet where I could insert a key. It has had a towbar fitted, so I'm wondering if an electrical connection has been disturbed.

BTW, it's W reg. I mention that as I have googled for alarm problems and similar solutions have been mentioned but I cannot find a key slot, which may be a feature belonging to phase 1 and 2 models only. After I have determined whether it's switched on, my next step would be to get someone to help me determine whether the siren is working. And after that, the alarm ECU. Does that seem like a logical process of elimination?

Sorry about the earlier posts which are not in the right threads - I can't get the damn thing to work!