FAO: Steve H

Just a quicky (ooo-eer)

My wife is thinking of a getting a new car in the not so distant future, Ive sugested a Alfa 156 2.5 V6 probably 4 years old. She does about 3k miles per year.

What are like, reliabilty wise? As I'll be maintaining it (Well I'll be paying for anything that goes wrong anyway) She has an MX5 at the moment but shes not getting full use of it as she gets ear infections easily so cant have the roof down! Are they nice to drive? The engine sounds beautiful, I heard one the other day "Giving it some" :-D

Cheers

Alex

Reply to
Alex Jackson
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Nooooo!

They rust, they fall apart, they burn a sump load of oil in 300 miles, and to cap it all, they're not especially reliable, too.

For three thousand miles a year it would be cheaper to get a taxi, too - although I appreciate one persons' cost to "freedom" is too much or too little for another! ;)

/boils kettle, puts feet up, waits/

Reply to
DervMan

A good 156 is a joy to drive, a bad one could cost you the GDP of Burkina Faso.

If it is relability you are looking for, buy one that DOES NOT have selespeed and has a full service history. If your wife has heavy toes, buy her the 2.5 v6. If she (or you) don't enjoy checking oil and other 'levels' weekly, buy something like a volkswagen!

Adam H

Reply to
Rev. Alfa Adam

Cambelt, tensioners. I'd recommend getting them changed as soon as you get it, and every 2 years after that.

Keep the oil fresh, keep it topped up and change the belts / tensioners every 2 years.

There's not much else. Apart from running away from anything with the 'flappy paddle gearbox'. It's had more software updates than WinMe and is about as stable ;-)

The V6 is a little nose-heavy. But I reckon most drivers wouldn't really notice this. The sound is wonderful, the engine is a work of art, and that body.

Personally, I'd either opt for a V6 Sportwagen (it's better balanced due to the extra weight over the rear wheels) or a 2lt TS - which is probably the best handling / performance compromise of the two.

Whatever you go for - look for a very thorough service history. If it's a private sale, AROC membership is a good sign, I wouldn't buy from anyone else. If from a dealer, make sure you get a cast-iron warranty. You just never know if it has been abused in the past - ex-fleet cars are to be avoided at all costs. As are cars owned by people who don't know where to put the oil.

If you do go for it, run it on fully synth Selinia - bloody expensive oil, but cheaper than a bottom-end failure.

Reply to
SteveH

Thanks for your replys! I think ive made her mind up not to get one though, IMHO it sounds like it will cost me an imperial "fuckload" for the very small amount of miles that she will be doing!

Steve: Your right about the engine, it does sound like a work of art, If you could get an album with Alfa engine music on it, that engine would be my favorite track!!! :D

Dervy: Definately not cheaper to get taxi's and it would be an Imperial PITA as we live about 12 miles from the nearest cab office! and about 9 miles from the nearest shop!

The Right Honerable Reverand Alfa Adam: She does have heavy toes, She doesnt like checking oil levels, Thats "My" Job!!! And she doesnt like VW's!

Like I said, I think Ive persuaded her that there are other cars out there, that will cost less to maintain, be less hassle to keep tiptop condition, and cars that are just as nice to look at! (Well maybe not JUST as nice, but nearly!) Thanks again for your advice though!

Alex

Reply to
Alex Jackson

so what is she looking at now then now the alfa is out?

no doubt SteveH will try sell a beamer to you now :)

Reply to
Vamp

Fully synth Selenia is s**te. I used to run it in my Integrales. Hence two oil based engine deaths.

Run it on Shell Helix + Semi Synthetic. Lasts longer, doesn't do any damage, doesn't promote bore wear, and keeps its pressure a lot longer, change it every 6000 and it'll last ages. [1]

[1] provided you don't buy a selespeed, they're utterly utterly shit.
Reply to
Pete M

Looking for the last in the line of 4th Gen Honda Preludes N reg is the newest 4th gen! 2.0 or 2.2vtec or 2.3

Looked at Beemers, Nothing really in her price range that took her fancy!

Reply to
Alex Jackson

He reckoned about 3k miles a year. Are you saying, that to keep an alfa on the road, it needs a new cambelt every 6k Miles?

That is just silly.

I've just had the cam chain done on the 900 at 127k miles. It was done more as a precaution, than due or needed, as I had had the top guide and tensioner updated (older obsolete parts still fitted), and it was recommended to be done at the same time. Have known them to go to

150-200k before "needing" change.
Reply to
MeatballTurbo

You might get away with 3 years - which would be 36k miles for an average driver. I certainly wouldn't risk any more. A belt change is cheap in comparison with a top-end rebuild.

However - the life of a belt is governed by time as well as mileage - unlike a chain. If it's not really doing much work, and standing for large periods of time, then you're asking for trouble - the belt will harden and crack.

Belts are silly, full stop.

I'm actively trying to stick with chain driven engines at the moment - more expensive to replace, but you only have to do it once.

Reply to
SteveH

In article , snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk spouted forth into uk.rec.cars.modifications...

Agreed. I liked the old Skoda. Chain timing, no tensioner, no adjustment. They do rattle a little after about 30k, supposed to be changed arround 35-50k, have been known to last well over 70 without chainsawing though the engine.

Parts, £12.50 including new sprockets if you do it yourself (easy on an estelle or Rapid) Or £150 + vat at main dealer fitted (about £150 inc VAT if you use a Skoda savvy indy) especially useful when it is in a Favorit, Felicia or early Fabia, as they need to be fitted with 12" long 1/4" thick fingers if you do it with the engine in the bay.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Alfa TwinSpark - chain lasts over 150k miles usually. But it has a tensioner.

They have been known to do well over 200k miles before replacement.

Reply to
SteveH

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