99 'Stang brakes

Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job. I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers, what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?

I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor. Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install, bleed. Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Carl

Reply to
Carl
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You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA. I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.

You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.

Also...most service manuals will tell you to remove the spring on the caliper for the emergency brake cable. Don't ever take it off if you don't have to. They can be a real PITA to get back on...

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Reply to
Hawk

Actually, it's better to use the bleeder nut. You don't really want to push dirty brake fluid back into your brake lines. Unless you just flushed the line sI Would open the bleeder nut.

good advice !

Reply to
RT

While you are doing your brakes, flush your entire brake system with new fluid. With a performance braking system, it can't hurt to have new fluid in the lines. I recommend the ford heavy duty dot 3 fluid (ford dealer parts counter). I know a couple of local circle track and solo II guys that swear by it.

Reply to
cprice

Flushing the brake fluid should be in everyone's maintenance schedule every other year. A good high performance brake fluid that won't break the bank is Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. It's compatible with both DOT3 and DOT4, is widely available, and has better performance characteristics that most of the cheap stuff you find in the parts stores or at your stealership. 8-) I normally use a Motive power bleeder. That's the best $50 I ever spent.

Cheers,

Reply to
Ritz

I guess for me it depends on how old the car is...if the car is only a few years old I won't bother bleeding the system if I don't have to. I'm pretty easy on the brakes and don't ever cook them, so the fluid tends to look fine after only a few years. My car is stored winters, so that doesn't hurt either.

On the other hand, it's not a bad idea to keep the bleeder nuts lubed up and give them a turn once in a while to keep them from freezing up. Especially if the vehicle is driven in the snow and slop.

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Reply to
Hawk

tends to look fine after only a few years.

If you wait until the fluid doesn't look "fine", you've waited too long. Corrosion starts before the fluid starts to turn. A brake fluid flush every two years is a good plan.

Dave

Reply to
Hairy

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