Front Control Arm Questions

IIRC the bushings are pressed in and almost impossible to get out without a press. With a press, it takes a matter of seconds. Just find a machine shop, they should be able to do it pretty cheap.

Arlie

Any thoughts as to how hard it's likely to be to get the arms out of the car to start with? ... or tricks on that part?

Thanks! Dave

Well first of all if you mess with anything that has a spring attached make sure you have it secured. Those Springs can and will fly out and probably kill you or damage something if not secured correctly. You really need to be careful and have the correct tools. I have done it before and trust me when I tell you it is dangerous without tools.

Dave

I replaced the ones on my '89 a few years ago. For $200/pr I got the Ford Racing arms from Summit. Bushings and high quility ball joints already installed and ready to bolt in.

I installed Ford lowering springs at the same time, and had to locate a special Ford spring compressor to get it back together. The Auto Zone loaner compressor wasn't even a close fit. It took the better part of the afternoon to get done. Installed Koni struts too. Found out the hard way they don't come with the hardware. That was another trip out and $50/each.

Auto Zone has a shop manual on Cd for $20. That has been a great investment.

Hank

Replacing the bushings at home is possible, it just takes some time and a little frustration. I have done it on several vehicles including an 82 Ford Fairmont and 86 Buick Grand National - the Fairmont would be the same as doing a fox body mustang, as it's also a fox body. The things you'll need are a large C clamp, large hammer, a drill or torch, appropriately sized pieces of tubing (metal, hard plastic, etc.) and an assistant would be nice too. First you need to get the rubber centers out of the bushings so you can get the old shells out. One way is heat them up with a torch and they'll eventually melt out. This is messy, but kinda fun and not a lot of grunt work. The other way I found to do this is take a drill and crap bit (long enough to go all the way through or close) and drill into the bushing between it and the metal sleeve, letting the drill run around the perimiter of the rubber like it will want to - this will break the seal between the rubber and its sleeve and free the bushing and pop it out... ...a little more work this way but less smoke & smell. Once that's done I pounded out the sleeves by doing one of two things: either A) use a piece of steel the same diameter of the sleeve, set it on the sleeve, run a rod through the other bushing hole and pound it out with a heavy hammer, or B) drill a hole through the sides of the sleeve big enough for a good size bolt to go in through both sides - then you don't need an exact diameter piece (can be hard lining it up each time to pound) and you just set a piece of steel on the bolt and pound it out that way. Obviously you have to drill the hole up toward the top of the sleeve so it can travel down as you pound, since if you don't you'll just bottom your bolt out on the control arm itself and the sleeve will go nowhere.

Some recommendations while you have them out of the car: 1) powdercoat your arms and never worry about them getting crusty again - but don't get any in the bushing bores or they can be tough to get back in 2) use poly bushings if you weren't going to already 3) might as well do the ball joints too if they're old

The ball joints are about a thousand times easier with a press, but I've also just done it pounding them in and out with a large hammer an in with an appropriately sized round piece

Ok on to the install... once again you have to take the bushings out of the new sleeves to make life easier, they should pound out pretty easily since they haven't been in your car for 20 years... All you need is a round tube that will fit over the inside which you're pressing toward or alternately a U shaped piece that will provide a solid surface to press against while leaving a hole for the bushing & sleeve as it's pressed through. So put that piece on the inside, a flat piece on the face of the sleeve on the outside, center up the clamp and start cranking. Sometimes you'll have to watch it as it goes through to make sure the other side is going to make it and if not adjust the clamp a bit to straighten out the sleeve. These can press in hard, so keep an eye on the edges of the control arm because when you start cranking the sleeve in, it can bend the edges in pretty easily and if you keep going the edges of the control arms will end up closer together than when you started. You could weld a piece of steel on that open lower edge of the arm to prevent this, but not everyone has access to a welder. You can also just put a piece (or several) of steel in between the two edges to support them and prevent them from bending in. Once you're trying to clamp and hold all these pieces in place, you'll see where the assistant might be handy. Anyway, after the sleeves pop into place, all you have to do is do the same process with the new bushings - it's a lot easier pressing them in than the sleeves, they should slide right in. Pounding them in can be hard, because the hammer wants to bounce.

Anyway, I tried to include everything I can remember and hopefully it makes sense and is helpful... :)

-Scott