Head bolt sheared -- how to get out

Bummer.

That's a great price if you can get it for that.

It's not hard at all to remove that bolt if you've got an impact gun. 8-)

Cheers,

"Lloyd Cimprich" wrote in news:a4292$4362cdda$cf70179f$ snipped-for-privacy@PRIMUS.CA:

A tip... If you want some better performance out of that car.. though it'll cost you in mileage, get a head for a turbo coupe... assuming it's single plug still in that year.

I finally got a socket to fit the head bolts on my 1990 2.3 Mustang but one of the bolts sheared. There is about 1/2" protuding above block and I am looking for advice from those who have done this before.

Thanks.

The most effective way that I have found to remove bolts that have broken off is to weld a nut onto the stud sticking out. The heat from the welder is usually enough to expand and contract the bolt to be removed rather easily.

...Ron

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I thought to try the my impact wrench but did not have an impact socket.

It was dark out but all the valves looked OK except for #3 exhaust which had a small chunk out of it. The chunk was about the size of a match head and seems to have gone out the exhaust. Probably in the cat.

Bottom end looks OK but also have to inspect in daylight.

I am now looking for a roller cam/followers and new lash adjusters. I may be able to get a rebuit head for $250 with core charge so will look into that next week.

Other than the head bolt I think I am OK.

How hard is it to get the nut off the crankshaft so I can replace the timing belt?

Thanks in advance.

did the valves look like?

Hard to get an impact gun in there to get the nut off. I use a long stout box wrench and a rubber hammer. If it's a stick shift, put it in the highest gear and lock the parking brake to keep the crank from turning.

Al

Use a good penetrating oil on this rascal and let it soak as long as feasible. Respray it occasionally. If I can get to it, I have used a small pipewrench (not vicegrips) on the bolt. It will bite in, and you can work it slowly back and forth and hope it slips. Tighten a little as well as loosen. Once you break the 'logjam' it goes pretty easy.

As others have said, you can weld a nut to it and have a go with your breakover bar or impact wrench, too.

I would have used a regular socket on my impact wrench, if I didnt have a proper impact socket. A good socket will hold up enough to loosen that sucker.

You can normally take your head to a machine shop and have them go through it a lot cheaper than $250.. and you, I hope, know the condition of your head.. You have no clue, really, when you get an exchange.

I cant believe I wrote 'vice' grips...visegrips...

Must have been a subconcious thing. I like the original spelling better anyway, the only vicegrips I use in my garage are the ones used as clamps for welding purposes.

...Ron

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Why not simply tap it and use an easyout?

Because he said there was a fair bit of stud sticking up out of the block. If it had broken off somewhat flush with the block, I'd agree with you.

Cheers,

Exactly. Easyouts are a pain to use, and not always so successful, especially if you have a more 'robust' way to approach it.

Visegrips are okay as welding clamps, but on heavy jobs, they just dont hold the mark.

A firm back and forth motion on the bolt shaft, with use of a good penetrating oil, will normally loosen even the toughest one.

In order of effectiveness

Kroil

Free All

PB Blaster

Thanks for all the excellent advice! I do not have a welder but will try pipe wrench and penetrating oil. Does anyone have a suggestion related to penetration oils? Lately I have been using rust check and it seems to help.

Thanks.

The best penetrating oil Ive ever seen/used is called "Nuts Off" but I havent seen it around in a while

Dave

I notice it a bit less in the last few years myself.