Heavily modified '89 LX idling badly, stumbling on cruise control

All -

It's been a while since I posted to this group, my ISP dumped Usenet and I have avoided using Google Groups like the plague. But here I am.

I have a 5.0 '89 LX. I've basically replaced the entire drive train. I installed a Ford Racing 5.0 crate motor (M-6007-XEFM) with a M-6250- E303 cam, .498" lift intake and exhaust, duration at .050" is 220 degrees intake and exhaust. It has Ford Racing aluminum GT-40 cylinder heads M-6049-X303 with 1.94" intake valves and 1.54" exhaust valves.

For fuel/air delivery I added 24# injectors, a C&L 70mm throttle body, EGR spacer, C&L 76mm mass air kit calibrated for 24# injectors, K&N open element filter and Typhoon intake.

It has 1 & 5/8" shorty headers, BBK h-pipe and high flow cats, and

2.5" pipes.

It also has a new AOD transmission and 3.73 posi gears in the rear.

It runs OK when under throttle, but it doesn't idle worth a crap, and at highway speeds on cruise control it seems like it is surging/ bucking. Sometimes it doesn't want to start, either - I have to crank it and crank it before it will finally fire up.

We've checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks and we're very confident there are none. My mechanic has tested every sensor he can think of, replaced several, everything indicates all is well. It just won't idle or run at a constant speed well. He did say that the plugs were pretty white when he checked them, indicating we're running a little lean. C&L said this is expected since it's running an open air filter

- their intake gear is really designed to run with the stock airbox. Another odd thing which has happened a couple of times is that when I accelerate hard I hear a light backfire - almost more of a loud "poof" than a bang, if that makes any sense, then it blasts off.

My mechanic also bumped the high pressure fuel regulator up from the recommended 38 to more like 43 on the recommendation of a peer of his who does a lot of work on Mustangs.

The last thing we're going to try is to get a programmable chip and have the ECU programmed by a shop here in Austin which has a programmer and a dyno.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to anything else I should look at? I am very hopeful that a reprogram will get this thing to run more civilly. If a new ECU chip still doesn't do it I am considering maybe going to 30# injectors, as Ford Racing said that's what they'd recommend to get the full 340HP from this crate motor.

Honestly, I am much more interested in this thing driving civilly than quarter mile times. It's my daily driver and I'm pushing 40. Good manners are more important to me these days. :-)

Thanks for reading this, Thomas

Reply to
Thomas Cameron
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What fuel pump do you have? Is it keeping the pressure and flow up to specs under a load?

-------- .boB

2006 FXDI hot rod 2008 Mustang Coupe 2007 Ram 2500 CTD/Auto/4x4 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.
Reply to
.boB

Hrm - good point. I have not replaced the fuel pump so I imagine it is still the stock one.

TC

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

In thinking of it, wouldn't it be OK since he was able to set the fuel pressure regulator to 42-43? If the fule pump weren't doing the job wouldn't that have been indicated when he set it? Forgive me, I am not a mechanic, I'm a computer geek.

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

Hi Thomas, a few other of us also lost usenet from our ISPs and went to Motzarella.org for a free account.

Just sign up and your back up using your usenet client!

Reply to
GILL

A bad pump would be fine at idle. But under a load it wouldn't be able to keep up. That's a tough thing to measure, though. Unless you have a dyno.

Since you're upgrading everything else, I would replace the stock pump anyway. They're pretty inexpensive, and it's not a big job to replace them. Go with a Walbro 255 L/Hr.

-------- .boB

2006 FXDI hot rod 2008 Mustang Coupe 2007 Ram 2500 CTD/Auto/4x4 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.
Reply to
.boB

Thanks! I have been trying to figure out what service to use, I'll try out Motzarella.org!

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

My thoughts... seems unlikely it's the injector size unless perhaps they are too big. Since you are having the problems at idle and at cruise it's not an issue of not getting enough gas, it's an issue of not getting a uniform flow. As was suggested, it's possible your fuel pump isn't putting out enough volume but here again since you have said you have plenty of power when you get on it it seems unlikely it's a fuel pump problem.

Does this engine still have the original Idle Air Bypass valve? They are notorious for causing idle problem and cruise problems. When I had an 88LX 5.0 some years back a new IAB valve cured both those problems for me. Also, setting the IAB valve, either the existing one or a new one, can be tricky. I had the best luck in setting them by backing the base idle screw completely out and then turning it in only one-quarter turn past where it just barely touched the stop. Also with the IAB valve there might be a "plate" you can buy from Ford for that model that allows additional adjustment, it goes between where the IAB mounts and the IAB and provides additional bleed air or something.

I don't know what it is about these 5.0s but a friend of mine is having exactly the same problems you are on a stock setup and has tried just able all the same stuff you have (and most of my ideas) and he is still fighting it. He's looking into possible EGR issues now and considering getting the "plate".

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Check the TPS sensor. It may be worn out. Mine did the same thing and I unpluged the TPS while it was running and the idle went from crap to perfect. I went and bought a new one and everything has been good since.

Reply to
CK

Well, I *think* it is giving enough power but I also am a little surprised at how hard it is to break the rear tires loose. I would think that with 3.73 gears even with posi I should be able to do a nice burnout, and I just can't. I think a new fuel pump is in my future.

As far as I know it is the stock IAB. I'll look at that as well.

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll chase them down.

TC

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

Hey, that's a thought. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

I had an EGR valve stick part way open that caused a problem similar to the one you describe.

Reply to
Ironrod

snipped-for-privacy@i20g2000prf.googlegroups.com...

I've replaced the EGR valve so I don' think that's it, but I will double check.

Thanks! TC

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

Very cool! I am now posting via Motzarella.org! Thanks for the pointer.

Time Warner seriously pissed me off!

TC

Reply to
Thomas Cameron

Keep in mind, the larger the injectors are the worse it will idle.

Al > 86 Mustang, blown 393 inch Windsor w/ 72 LB., 750 CC injectors...

Reply to
Big Al

Agreed with the above suggestion on the TPS.Also check out the hall-effect sensor in the distributor,they do funny things and will make the engine run like crud.Always a possibility is the TFI module.If you dont find the problem change out the distributor with a known good one.May have to do a compression check somewhere in this process also,including checking injectors.Sure the plugs are good?I have had brand new ones not work in a

Reply to
taz

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