Help with bucking 65

If it bucks with the clutch fully engaged, it has nothing to do with clutch.

Check both the cooling system and the Distributor... as well as the carb.

Is flooring it as opposed to gradual acceleration, the same?

Canadian Musclecars opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:

I'd check the ignition components... but I believe BackyardMechanic already suggested it.

-Mike

-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch

255/60R-15 rear tires Subframe connectors Aluminum adjustable clutch quadrant

It could be any number of things from what you descibe. Have you done anything to it that could have caused these problems? Was it running well before? If it were a car I just bought or a friends car I'd check the timing and the firing order. Hopefully this is what causing it to boil over. Of course a blown head gasket could be causing it to buck, and boil over for that matter. When you start it cold next time leave the cap off the radiator and observe the coolant for flow when it gets warm. Keep an eye out for bubbles indicating a blown head gasket. About the timing, I once worked on a car with a 351W in it. I could have sworn I put the distributer back in correctly because the car idled fine but the engine bucked when I gave it gas. Turns out the distributer was 180 degrees off. Never had one run after putting the dist. in wrong so it perplexed the hell out of me until I wen't ahead and tried reinstalling it. :) One more thing, did you install splitfire spark plugs? They tend to break easily (internally) if you put too much pressure on them. I also had one malfunction just driving down the street one day. Pure crap. Check your wires, plugs, cap and rotor.

It could be any number of things from what you descibe. Have you done anything to it that could have caused these problems? Was it running well before? If it were a car I just bought or a friends car I'd check the timing and the firing order. Hopefully this is what causing it to boil over. Of course a blown head gasket could be causing it to buck, and boil over for that matter. When you start it cold next time leave the cap off the radiator and observe the coolant for flow when it gets warm. Keep an eye out for bubbles indicating a blown head gasket. About the timing, I once worked on a car with a 351W in it. I could have sworn I put the distributer back in correctly because the car idled fine but the engine bucked when I gave it gas. Turns out the distributer was 180 degrees off. Never had one run after putting the dist. in wrong so it perplexed the hell out of me until I wen't ahead and tried reinstalling it. :) One more thing, did you install splitfire spark plugs? They tend to break easily (internally) if you put too much pressure on them. I also had one malfunction just driving down the street one day. Pure crap. Check your wires, plugs, cap and rotor.

"Canadian Musclecars" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com:

1964, eh? Check the vacuum advance, it will cause both the overheating and the bucking.