what should the idle be when starting, when warmed up, and when in drive
- posted
19 years ago
what should the idle be when starting, when warmed up, and when in drive
When first started cold, the idle would usually flare to 1500 - 2000 rpm... It should settle down on it's own fairly quickly.... warm curb idle and warm idle in drive should both be in the 750 rpm range... all this is from memory.
do you know what would cause the idle to be about 1500 when in drive would the throttle cable do it thanks tim
peewee123 opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
it varies depending on the engine
;)
Warm idle, in gear at 1500 rpm?... Several things come to mind. First thing would be engine size and mileage.... any codes retrieved? Has it been tuned up lately? Any other concerns that are there but not bugging you at this time?
This one will sound like a slap no matter how I word it.... were you aware of the problem when you bought the car and if you were do you think it was for sale for a reason? Let's get the basics out of the way without playing guessing games and we can form a decent diagnostic line for your concern.
i was not aware of the promblem when i bot the car tim
peewee123 opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
Please state everything that you feel is out of the ordinary, plus all indications under each driving condition
that includes the engine size, which we will assume is the v6
Does the engine stall when pulling to a stop?
Does it shift at the right times?
Does it start easily?
There are three things that often figure in:
Vacuum leak (includes the PCV)
Idle Speed Control valve
Throttle Position Sensor
Could be several things. Vacuum leak is one, Idle air valve broken and rigged to keep idling is another.... It's not the throttle cable. It doesn't work that way. The butterfly valves are normally shut and the idle air valve lets in enough air to keep the engine idle. With the idle air valve shut there is a standard rpm this enigne runs on. There is a set screw for the standard rpm somewhere on the throttle body I think. Get a manual for this car, it's 20 or 30 bucks well spent.
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engine is a 3.8 v6 no it doesnt stall shifts fine we had the tranny checked at cottman said it was fine had diagnostic test done nothing came up no lights coming on starts fine
they said maybe tranny filter\screen but they are not sure, somebody else said blocked hose to tranny
the throttle cable was loose so we tightened it but still doing it so somebody said maybe it is catching
peewee123 opined in news: snipped-for-privacy@localhost.talkaboutautos.com:
HOPING you have NOT adjusted the throttle stop screw
-one step at a time, engine warmed-
Disconnect the throttle cable(s) warm, see if it still idles high.
Disc MAF conn with eng off, Disc air intake tube at TB, start, block with hand.. if engine doesnt kill you have a vac leak
Check the PCV valve and feed port.
Remove ALL vacuum access feeds, except Fuel press Reg, block the ports.
none of the above; use propane torch, adj to low flame and blow it out then put nozzle around all mating/gasket areas of intake.
- - - - - - - If engine does kill w TB intake blocked:
Remove ISC assy, block both ports on TBody
- If idle is still at 750 or above, throttle stop screw is wrong: adj to 600-
650- if idle drops to about 650 or below, when ISC ports blocked, clean the ISC valve thoroughly with intake cleaner and/optionally replace TPS.
how would you know if the brain was going on a 94 ford mustang is there an warning signs thanks tim
Did *yours* give a warning sign before it went?
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