Just receved 69' Mustang fastback

I just ave a few Questions:

Is it the only year that this model was made? What gas miladge does it get? What can i do to get better gas miladge? How much would it cost to replace a rear fender panel if you already have a new panel, just to instal it?

Reply to
nko
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What, you mean the fastback? Not by any means! Fastbacks were first introduced in 1965.

Here's a couple pages with a few pics of other years of early fastbacks:

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How about *you* tell *us*? I can't read either your odometer or your gas reciepts from here. :)

Reply to
Garth Almgren

Whoops! Forgot my .sig! :)

Reply to
Garth Almgren

In '69 it was called 'sportsroof' rather than 'fastback' and mustangs came in this body style every year from '65 to '73.

Reply to
Brent P

First, welcome to RAMFM.

Second, you left out a lot of info that will make it a whole lot easier to help you. Mileage depends on A LOT of things. What engine, carb, tranny, and rear gears does it have?

Next, If you want to get technical, the car is a *sportsroof*. Fastbacks were built from '66-'68. Sportsroofs were from '69-'73. However the term

*fastback* is completely interchangeable with *sportsroof*. The inverse isn't. The cosmetic look of your '69 is pretty much the same as a '70. the '69-'70 was the 2nd restyling of the mustang. The first restyle was in '67-'68 which took the original 'Stang and made it bigger, though it looks quite similar to the original. The '69-'70 looks completely different, though still very recognizable as a Mustang. One thing you'll notice soon is the uninitiated will almost always ask if your sportsroof is a Mach 1. Kinda like the guys at car shows who say that they used to own one JUST LIKE THAT, except it was a different color and it was a Chevy, but it was JUST LIKE THAT!

Now, about the rear quarter panel. Is it the ENTIRE quarter panel that has to be replaced, or just the area around the wheel well and the lower section of the panel? If it's the entire panel, including the area up into the leading in the sail panel, then it's gonna be REALLY expensive. If it's not, then it won't be cheap but it'll be a lot easier for the body guy.

I'd call around to the local early Mustang clubs to see who they use. There's usually 3-5 good body/paint guys they can all agree on, who are fair in their price. Try a search on Google using "mustang club" and the name of your state. You might find a website at

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that'll be able tosend you the right direction to a local club. Stick with it if you really want to get into the hobby. All I can say is it's really easy to quit when it gets tough, or expensive. and it's always expensive. My first car was a '70 Sportsroof and I kick myself everyday that I sold it. Have fun!!!

Reply to
66 6F HCS

"66 6F HCS" wrote

Oops, I meant '65-'68.

Reply to
66 6F HCS

"nko" wrote

A 302 2-bbl should get high teens, low twenties. A 351 2-bbl should get mid teens. A 351 4-bbl or 428 will get low teens and possibly single digits.

The 4-spd AOD automatic trans and the 5-spd T-5 stick are primarily responsible for the improved fuel economy of late model Stangs. Many have transplanted these trannies into their classics. If you combine an OD trans with the typical 3.00:1 gear used in the oldies you will cruise at 2500 rpm or less. But the expense of this swap -- about $2000 all in -- will take a long time to recoup at the annual mileage the classics typically see. Even at today's fuel prices, I doubt if you'd ever see a net savings.

If you've got a 302 (or a 351 Windsor -- highly unlikely), the other main fuel saving tip is to swap in the fuel injection setup from a late model 5.0. I've heard tell this can be done for $500 or less using junkyard parts and if you make your own wiring harness. But if you've got a Cleveland or an FE you're going to have to go aftermarket. And that puts you up and over the $2000 range, an expense that again you're unlikely to recoup in fuel savings.

You can also add electronic ignition, which might save a few drops of fuel. This runs from $100 or less for a Ford Duraspark (if you've got the 302 or 351W) to as much as $500 for a complete MSD system.

Of course there is always the practice of keeping the engine tuned up and the tires properly inflated. Also keep the accelerator pedal off the floor boards as much as possible. But when it comes right down to it the only way to save fuel in a carbureted, V8, 3800 lb '70 fb is to leave it parked in the driveway. Or you can ship it to me, and I'll "cc" you with all my credit card receipts to document all the suffering I'm doing at the pump just for you.

180 Out TS 28
Reply to
180 Out

ROFLMGDAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

MadDAWG

Reply to
MadDAWG

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