Oil Question

Hmmm...that's probably a 170 or 200. If it was my car, I'd probably use

10W-40 or 5W-40. I'm partial to Mobil1 synthetic. Their 5W-40 Truck & SUV formula would work well.

Most likely a 170. Depending on accumulated wear and use/driving patterns. The longer the average drive time warm, the more sense it makes to use Mobil 1.

Here's a hint though... stay away from popular, highly promoted, oils referring to a big eastern state.

Also stay away from "pay me now or pay me later" orange oil filters with 4 letter name. They REALLY mean "Buy it now, and pay for it later"

Depending on the age and condition of the engine, I would use the weight of oil that was recommended in 1965. I don't think you will gain anything using Mobil1, Dino oil will work just fine, and if it uses a little oil, will not break the bank when it comes time to add. My personal preference for major brands of oil are: Castrol, Valvoline, Quaker State. You can not go wrong with these. I did some work on an engine that my father in law bought new and changed oil every 2K, using Pennzoil from day one. The amount of sludge inside that engine after 80K was enough so I never used Pennzoil again.

And BTW, Quaker State is owned by Pennzoil... and I determined that SuperBlend broke down at approximately 1200 miles, as opposed to almost any other oil which took at least 2000 miles.

Valvoline, please, for MY dino oil... like I said if you have long warm cycles, Mobil1 is the answer.

Its a 170, the car does not get much time on the road, about once every two weeks or so I put about 15-20 miles on it. It probably has about 500 miles since the last oil change, which was about 6-8 months ago. Is it bad to let it go that long even though it is hardly used? Checking the dip stick it still shows as being full and there is never really any smoke when I run the car, so it doesn't seem to burn/leak oil, thankfully, unlike the transmission.... It currently has a motorcraft oil filter. So I gather that the recommended oil would be 5w30 mobil1?

Thanks for all the comments, I really don't know much about the car and may just end up having to sell it to someone who can maintain it better than me...

Dave

I really wouldn't bother with synthetic oil. Just get the weight that was specified for it. Your best way tomake sure the engine will last for a while is to make sure you fully warm up the engine when you run it (20 miles at least) AND to take it easy before the engine is fully warmed up. Do NOT ever start the engine in the garage to 'warm it up', it will not warm up unless you run it for a LONG time.

So long as the car is driven long enough that combustion products are getting burned off and not thining the oil. Other's opinions will vary some but I've never had a problem with such time periods but I always make sure to drive it long enough that there isn't any contamination build up.

I run regular dyno mobil 10W30 in '73 maverick 250. I've used mobil 1

10W30 before on a couple of occasions. The mobil 1 was better in the very cold weather (which I no longer drive the car in) and the engine consumed more mobil 1 than it did on regular oil. Neither was bad consumption.. in the range of normal, just that it consumed more mobil 1. The first time I used mobil one it seemed to clean out what little sludge there was in the engine, so that's another benefit provided all the seals are good. I had no problems with seals or leaks of any sort. I switched back because I drive the car less, the regular oil is a lot less money, and it burns less of the regular oil.

In my mustang(4.6) I've run mobil 1 5W30 since the first oil change from new.

Naw...you're about marginal as to use, I would use regular valvoline

10w30.

The real rule of thumb for dino oils should be 3,000 miles or 4 months, whichever comes first. Remember water condenses inside the engine due to temperature/humidity change... doesnt even have to be run.

Shame you dont use it enough that you would consider selling it. Motorcraft are good filters

What little that is would simply return to water vapor when the engine reaches OT and be taken care of by the crankcase breather or PCV system as the case may be.

wel... yeah! that's the point!

If I remember my history both Pennzoil and Quaker State were originally refined from Pennsylvania crude. The wax content is different in Pa crude vs, other crudes. I though it was less. But then again this could all be urban legend. Hey you pertroleum engineers, help me out!

Dave

I believe Pennzoil and Quaker State used to be parrafin based. Don't know if they still are. Regardless, it's Valvoline or Castrol for me.

Dave

PA crude is high in paraffin.

But that no longer is the reason... at least wasnt for my empirical tests of QS

Actually more. They are paraffin based oil as opposed to Exxon and Texaco etc. which are asphalt based. This is why around the 70's people would have engines that were kludged up with the varnish like leftovers of the wax in Quaker State.

I definitely wouldn't use 5W30. That's on the light side for that motor. I'd stick with the 10W40 Mobil1. It's a bit more expensive than conventional oil, but it has better detergent properties, won't sludge up your engine, and will start easier in the cold weather. And you can probably switch to a once a year change regimen with that type of mileage and synthetic oil. Motorcraft filters are fine as are Purolator. As someone else mentioned, you'll want to avoid FRAM.

That engine is VERY easy to maintain so I wouldn't worry much about it. Those old C4 transmissions leak like a mofo, even under the best of circumstances. It probably just needs a new rear seal which is cheap and easy to change (for someone with a lift). You could also change the transmission filter and pan gasket (which is probably also leaking and very cheap to buy) while you're down there and refill it with some Type F transmission fluid (not generic ATF).

If you have any other questions, fire away. Most folks on the group are pretty helpful.

Cheers,