Uh.... no. I already have one. I think I am going to rename her "Punt"
| > | > Now, if your car is a non metallic, it will look better than a | > metallic | > | > paint looks after repair but it will hide your ships very well. | > | > One of the guys is on the right path, you just have a couple more | > steps | > to | > | > go. | > | >
| > | > First, clean the area throughly with something that will completely | > remove | > | > any wax and dirt. Rinse it and make sure it is completely dry. | > | >
| > | > Greased Lightening, 409 (not simple green) that sort of thing. | > | >
| > | > Be sure your paint is throughly mixed and that you have both color and | > | > clear | > | > coat touch up paint. | > | >
| > | > Get some toothpicks. Round or flat, either will do, what you want is | > that | > | > nice fine point. | > | >
| > | > Dip the toothpick into the paint and dab it into the chip, one layer | > at | > a | > | > time, do not try to fill it all at once. | > | > After two or three light applications with the color, scuff very | > lightly | > | > with the sandpaper and repeat the process with the clear until the | > chip | > | > becomes just a little over filled. You should be able to feel it with | > your | > | > finger | > | > Allow to dry at least 24 hours and check for shrinkage. If not a bit | > of | > a | > | > bump, scuff lightly with the sandpaper and continue filling. | > | >
| > | > When it's dry, load your sanding block with the 1500 grit sandpaper | > and | > | > wet | > | > not only the area to be touched up with warn water that has just a | > little | > | > bit of soap in it (a few drops, releases surface tension) but the | > sanding | > | > block (with the paper on it) and keep the area wet. | > | > Using just a small area of the sanding block, begin to lightly sand | > over | > | > the | > | > chip to bring it down to the level of the original paint. Try not to | > cover | > | > a | > | > very large area around the chip but expect to scuff an area in the | > paint | > | > 2- | > | > 3" in diameter. Sand a few strokes then wipe with a rag and check your | > | > progress. Repeat as necessary. The sanding block will level the | > surface | > | > leaving it flush with the existing paint. | > | > When you get it level, so that you cannot see a line between the | > factory | > | > paint and the chip then rinse it with fresh water and dry. | > | >
| > | > Using another clean cloth, or if you have a buffer, use polishing | > compound | > | > starting with a medium coarse then on to a fine and then finish off | > with | > a | > | > good wax. | > | > Check frequently when polishing, look at the area from different | > angles | > to | > | > be sure that you have gotten all of the area nice and shiny. | > | >
| > | > When it turns out beeeooootiful... send Kate flowers. | > | > If you screw it up, then go kick the cat. | > | >
| > | >
| > | > Hope this helps :) | > | >
| > | > Kate | > | > 98 Cobra Drop Top | > | >
| > | > wrote: | > | > | >
| > | > | > >So don't ask me how, but I've developed a few chips in my paint. | > I'd | > | > | guess | > | > | > >little rocks, but theres one on the roof too, dunno where they | > came | > | > from, | > | > | > >the car is wiped down weekly, and waxed several times a year, so | > I | > | > dunno | > | > | how | > | > | > >it chips when its this babied. Anyway, the chips are down to the | > | > primer, | > | > | and | > | > | > >have a visible 'depth' to them.No metal, no rust. | > | > | > >
| > | > | > >I picked up some touchup paint from ford this afternoon, and | > tried | > | > | touching | > | > | > >up one of the chips. Although the color matches, and the primer | > is | > | > | covered, | > | > | > >theres still a very visible (to me anyhoo) depth to the chip. | > Where | > | > the | > | > | > >factory paint is higher than the touchup paint. | > | > | > >
| > | > | > >Can anyone give me some pointers on a proper repair for this? | > I've | > | > got | > | > no | > | > | > >real bodywork experience (though I did just change my bumper -- | > | > whee!) | > | > | but | > | > | > >I'm fairly handy. | > | > | > >
| > | > | > >I'm thinking I need better tools than the crappy brush that came | > in | > | > the | > | > | > >touchup tube, but I doon't know what exactly to get. | > | > | > >
| > | > | > >In short, HELP! | > | > | > >
| > | > | > >Then again, if I should go to a pro, I'm game, but how much | > should | > it | > | > | cost? | > | > | > >for 5 or 6 of these things, all smaller than a pea. | > | > | > >
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| > | > | > I sure hope you get a good response on how to fix chips or small | > | > | scratches. I've | > | > | > tried, but the repair usually looks worse than the scratch! | > | > | >
| > | > | > John H | > | > | >
| > | > | > On the 'PocoLoco' out of Deale, MD, | > | > | > on the beautiful Chesapeake Bay! | > | > | >
| > | > | > "Divide each difficulty into as many parts as is feasible and | > | > necessary | > | > to | > | > | resolve it." | > | > | > Rene Descartes | > | > | | > | > | | > | >
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