Replacing starter 98 Cobra

It seems that my spoiled child has decided that she does not wish to leave the comfort and safety of her new garage.

On the day we took posession of our new home, we also found a truck and decided to park Shug in the garage for a much deserved rest. Afer a couple of weeks of unpacking and riding shotgun, I decided I'd had my fill of being passenger and jumped in my car to run to town. As I walked out with my keys in my hand, I grinned jokingly at my hubby and ask him "Do you think she'll start?" she's never failed me yet, like I said, I was joking.

Well... she didn't. The first thought was that the battery was low since it is the original Motorcraft installed at the factory. When I'd turn the key, whe whirred as thought the starter is turning, but not pushing out far enough to engage the flywheel. Just a high speed whirr and a zing. So, we put some jumper cables on her and gave it a go. Same thing. Then we tried pushing her an inch or two while in 5th gear to knock it loose, again, nothing.

Yesterday Dick raised her up and had a look. When I asked him how hard it looked he came back with "Well.. there's definitely a started under there, I can see it... sort of." then raised one eyebrow and gave me that "This is going to be a knuckle buster" look.

Have any of you out there changed a starter on one of these? If so just how hard is it to get in and out? Any secret lieelt tricks to it? I have the book, and the CD, but they generally just give you the part AFTER they have removed all the parts blocking your access.

In the old days, I would swap starters on my Chevy trucks, that was a piece of cake. I somehow suspect this little gem will be a whole nuther story.

Kate

Reply to
SVTKate
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On an old Lincoln, I think 1959, the blue book said that the first step in removing the starter was to remove the right front wheel !!!!!!!!

G
Reply to
Gene Wagenbreth

Sounds like a good time to pull the motor and drop in a more powerful one. :) Of course that could just be me. I'm always looking for a reason. My

308 (2000 miles maybe) is coming out for a 351w in about 6 weeks.

MadDAWG

Reply to
MadDAWG

That's what I was afraid of, and the nearest SVT Dealership is an hour fourty five away.

Reply to
SVTKate

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Reply to
Rein

Also just a thought... completely disconnect both battery cables (ground first, then positive), clean them & the battery terminals with baking soda & water (and a wire brush if available). Reconnect cables (positive, then ground)... try to start again. I'd at least do that before I attempted to replace a starter again.. it was hell.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

Kate,

You've got mail. It's a pdf (about 800KB).

Bob '03 Cobra coupe

Reply to
Bob

The lights are bright and we left the cables on her quite a while before we tried to start her. I know that if a battery is really low that it will not jump, but this doesn't seem to be the case. Dick says he is sure it's the starter, I trust his 30+ years as a mechanic. if he says so, it's likely right. If not, it's his checkbook we are buying parts with LOL.. to the tune of $185 for a new starter.

Kate

Reply to
SVTKate

My cables are as clean as the rest of my engine compartment. I keep those little felt washers with anti battery corossion stuff (red goo) on them. There is not a bit of corrosion on them. I'll tell him though.

Kate

Reply to
SVTKate

Well the main thing was disconnecting & connecting... b/c with my battery ground cable (I use the felt washers as well & anti-corrosion spray) it was just a tiny bit loose.. so I wiggled it back & forth so it'd scrape a little bit & get a tiny bit better connectivity and then I tightened it like a MFER and she fired right up again. Just a thought... b/c changing the starter ain't no fun!

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

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Reply to
Rein

Thanks Bob, It has some good info in it, including the symptoms of a burnt starter or dead battery. Not that I am unfamiliar with these, but never on my Cobra, only on the Chevy trucks I used to love... and maintain a LOT.

I sure appreciate you going to the trouble for me!

kate

Reply to
SVTKate

Wack it with a hammer. Use a little extra care if its got an aluminum housing.

Reply to
DriveSpy

My favorite tool! I'm part Polish, and I was told that's the only tool I'll ever need.

JS (Yes, I'm part Polish... and part just about everything else too... name it, it's probably in the mix)

Reply to
JS

An old boss of mine, Joe Delozier a polish chap he was. We nick named him RSB, for when he tried to fix something he would either RIPP it, say "SHIT on it" or just plain BUST it.

Reply to
Dave Sibbett

Sounds familiar. I think I got that part down pat.

JS

Reply to
JS

My hubby has a saying, "If it don't fit... get a bigger hammer"

Reply to
SVTKate

Turns out it wasn't the starter, or the battery, both were replaced. It was the PATS module in the steering column that was the culprit.

Kate

Reply to
SVTKate

at 20 Feb 2004, SVTKate [ snipped-for-privacy@excite.competitive] wrote in news:KtnZb.1210$ snipped-for-privacy@newsread2.news.pas.earthlink.net:

I'm so glad my 95 doesn't have PATS. I had it on my Ford truck back in Europe and it died in the 3rd year. Here I am, 150 miles from home out in the middle of nowhere with a truck that won't start. Luckily it was just within warranty so Ford ended up covering the cost. On that note, both front rotors warped in the first 3000 miles on that one. Ford also sprung for that fix. She lasted me about 10 years and a 150K miles until she blew a headgasket big time at 70MPH on the freeway. The engine was toast after that being a diesel unit. The temp needle went from normal to max overheat in less than 2 seconds...

Reply to
Paul

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