Starting an engine after its set for 5 years???

Hello. I have the chance to pick up a 83 GT for next to nothing with a rebuilt

5.0 with around 10k. Problem is the car has been setting for five years. The owner said he thought the gas tank would have to be drained due to the chance the gas has gone bad? Now then the engine. Is this engine a lost cause after setting for five years? If I try to start it am I going to damage it? What kind of problems might I run into? Thanks Greg
Reply to
GGHS 1981
Loading thread data ...

If you can drain the gasoline, do it. It's way old. As far as the engine, make sure it has a good battery. Drain the oil, and change it. Take out the spark plugs, and squirt a little bit of oil down the cylinders. maybe one squirt out of a oil gun. Then put the spark plugs back in and crank the engine for a few seconds with the coil wire unplugged. This ought to get the oil flowing.

After that, fire away.

Vic

2kGT 5m blk suspension upgrades

GGHS 1981 wrote:

Reply to
Victor DiMichina

If you have the capabilities and patience, instead of the last step (cranking with the coil wire off), you can get yourself a oil pump drive. Remove the distributor (mark exactly where it came out, rotor position as well since you won't be turning the engine), and insert the oil pump drive in its place. Use a drill (preferrably an electric drill, not a cordless) and spin the oil pump drive. This will send oil to the top half of the engine as if it were running, priming all of those parts that haven't been touched in years.

The oil in the cylinder will go a long way to getting the rings ready to go again and prevent excessive wear inside the combustion chamber... and I agree with Vic... if you can drain the gas, do so.

JS

Reply to
JS

Why would you guys say IF you can drain the gas? I would find a way to drain it. I would not try running stale gas at all! John

Reply to
jriegle

And of course don't forget to check Radiator, Coolant & Cap Belts, Hoses,Wiper blades, Tires - rubber rots when sitting.

and you might want to change the air in the tires too *wink*

Kate

Reply to
SVTKate

Spinning the oil pump drive shaft with the distributor off is an excellent idea to pre-oil the motor before starting, but be very careful.

The oil pump drive shaft may have a tendency to stick into the bottom of the distributor (at least on older 289's and perhaps 302's as well.) I do not know if the shaft is somehow captivated on the motor in question.

If the shaft is not captivated, and lifts up and then drops back into the motor, if it does not land back into the oil pump drive socket it might drop into the pan on older motors.

You may want to wiggle the distributor shaft as you slowly lift the distributor to try to shake the oil pump drive shaft loose. If you are lucky you will hear the drive drop loose with the distributor lifted only a very small amount.

Just my thoughts.....

Steve

JS wrote:

Reply to
steve

You've gotten some good info..... like John says don't try to drain the gas... just do it. I would almost hazard a guess that all that's left in the tank is a dark scum that stinks bad..... the only way to get rid of that stuff is to have the tank steamed - it WILL gum up the works.

Light oil down inside the cylinders and I'd hang rags over the sides and spin it over sans plugs, re-oil and spin again... then reinstall the plugs. If you can find it, Marvel Mystery Oil works better than anything else I've found.

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

drain oil and replace with new. Drain gas and fill. Don't crank it with old gas in it, this will make things worse since you will suck up the bad gas into the fuelsystem and probably clog everything up. Don't remove the distributor, too much chance of damaging things. Just squirt some oil in the cylinders and you should be good to go. Battery is probably toast also. Remove NO-SPAM from email address when replying

Reply to
Rein

Marvel Mystery Oil is a great product ... great for air tools too. =D

(*>

Reply to
Hawk

Thanks everyone for your advice. I think getting the gas tank drained is going to be the biggest pain. Any chance 83 GTs have a drain plug on the gas tank? I think I am going to leave the dist. alone and just get some oil into the cylinders and hand crank off the crankshaft first to make sure its free and then follow your steps for turning the engine over plugs out. What about the gas that was left in the carb? Greg

Reply to
GGHS 1981

Is the 83 carburated or Fuel injected ? If it's carbureted there won't be any gas left in the the carbs. Only some gummed up remains. Fuel injected it might still have some fuel in it, but most of that will be pumped back into the tank with the return line. Pumping it back and mixing it with new fuel won't be a problem since it's just a little bit Might want to run some injector/carb cleaner after it is running. Try seafoam, it's sold by Napa auto. Remove NO-SPAM from email address when replying

Reply to
Rein

Say what??? 83 is carburetted.... there is no such thing as "pumped back into the tank" since it will surely be pumped back out of the tank.

For the OP, there is no other sane choice than removing the tank and doing it right whether carbed or squirted.... anything else will change it from a car into a hobby.

I will admit that you do have a valid point.... there will likely be nothing in the way of gas in the float bowls.... the accelerator pump.... the emulsion tubes..... There will, however, be an abundance of olefins and such that will prevent proper function...... time for a carb overhaul as well.

Jim Warman snipped-for-privacy@telusplanet.net

Reply to
Jim Warman

I just started my 67 Mustang yesterday after setting for 10+yrs. Here is what I did: Removed the fuel tank and pressure washed, then added 2 gallons of carb cleaner, let that set for a couple of days, moving the tank from time to time, dumped out the carb cleaner, pressure washed again, let the tank stand on a corner to drain any remaining cleaner/water, let dry, reinstalled with new rubber, filled with gas removed the fuel sender/pickup tube and flushed with spray carb cleaner

cleaned the plugs

overhauled the carb

blew out the fuel lines,

oil change

replaced all the rubber in the fuel system

it started right up, had to add a little ATF to the transmission, got a little exhaust leak to deal with now Matt Gunsch, A&P,IA,Private Pilot Riding member of the 2003 world champion drill team Arizona Precision Motorcycle Drill Team GWRRA,NRA,GOA

Reply to
N329DF

no, this is with EFI only (read below). The fuel has a return line from the pressure regulator to the tank. This does not apply to you. How hard would it be to take the carb off and clean it out ??

Remove NO-SPAM from email address when replying

Reply to
Rein

Marvel Mystery Oil = sold at walmart supercenters around here.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.