Under Drive Pullies

About any pulley set will suffice. I wouldn't sweat over it too much. My suggestion is to install a set of subframe connectors instead. They make a huge difference in handling AND get more power to the wheels instead of using it to flex the chassis. I remember when I installed them on my '89 LX at how much easier it was to break the rear tires loose. It may well be the best single modification I ever did to the car. Especially considering the price.

As for gears, it depends on you need for gas mileage. If you don't care then go for the 4.10s. The gears will definitely put a smile on your face. While doing the gears it might be a good time to redo the clutch packs in the differential. They wear over time and need replaced to keep the posi trac tight. There is also a technique that uses an "S" spring from a truck differential and adding one additional clutch disc on each side to tighten up the posi trac even more. I did this on my car and really noticed a difference.

underdrives can overheat your car in traffic in the south. you do not pick up much HP from that either Good summer tires make a big difference in hooking up too.

The 8.8" Ford is a direct rip off of a 12 bolt Chevy. You can wedge the axle gears apart with a bolt and nut and really get the packs tight and still get the spider gears in. Old trick, worth remembering. This carrier is much better than the 9" Ford.

Al

Sorry, but that is a lot of misinformation there. The made a difference on my dyno numbers and they did not change the cooling ability at all on the car. I know a lot of peopel running them here with no problems at all. If you had an overheat problem it was more than just pulleys involved.

"Dear Leader" wrote in news:46c0bb74$0$97248$ snipped-for-privacy@authen.yellow.readfreenews.net:

I found the same thing with my UDs - my '93 had a tendency to run hot and the gain simply wasn't worth it. The battery was always discharging at idle also (the car's an AOD). In South Florida in the summer with the A/C always blasting, the UDs caused more problems then they were worth. After I removed them, both the heat and battery issues went away.

I never had a problem with overheating at all but then I don't live within spitting distance of the Tropic of Cancer. Most of the kits change the size of the water pump pulley to keep it spinning at close to stock rates. It does effect the output of the alternator a great deal though and reduces the rotation of the PS and smog pumps. I still think the OP is better off spending the money on sub frame connectors.

I've never heard of that method. FRPP now offers friction disks with carbon fiber coatings that are supposed to perform much better and be more durable. Here's a link for complete rear end rebuild:

Michael Johnson wrote in news:z7idnZks458oYl3bnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Agreed!

BTW, when it's 90 degrees @ 5pm and you're in bumper-to-bumper inching along with the A/C blasting for over 1/2 hour, the car will have a tendency to overheat. ;)

95 to 110 in Texas/Phoenix the A/C dumps a lot of heat into the engine, via radiator too.

No problems in South Louisiana either. I have had no battery problems since I put a decent battery in it. I've since changed to an electric fan, a 3G alternator and a Ron Davis aluminum radiator. It actually stays too cool now. I Still firmly believe if one has over heating problems there are other problems involved.