Where to get a short-block in NJ/Philly area?

Well today I started tearing down the '68s engine, getting ready to pull it.
I figure another hour or two tomorrow and it'll be ready to come out. Then I
just gotta get a hoist and coordinate a day when a buddy can give me a hand,
hopefully within a week or so.
Anywho, I need a short block. I basically want the block, rotating assembly,
cam+lifters, and timing chain. I have a set of closed chamber 289 heads that
are going on the engine, an '84 Mustang GT aluminum intake and a Holley
carb... And the rest of the accessories and whatnot from my old engine. I
asked at my local parts store and they could get me one with the block and
rotating assembly for $1,200... That seems a bit steep for just a stock
block and rotating assembly. Doesn't even include a cam, lifters or timing
gear/chain set. I know I could get a long block for that price with a 3 year
warranty at Pep Boys and some other large parts stores, but I've heard the
quality is questionable.
I'm not looking to make tons of power. Compression will be a bit high at
maybe 180 PSI due to the closed chamber heads, but I won't be making huge
amounts of power. The intake is just like my stock intake but aluminum and
accepts a 4 barrel carb. The carb is only a 500 CFM I believe. The thing
will never see over 5,000 RPM and won't be beat on much, just looking for a
bit more pep for my daily driver Galaxie, so I believe a stock 302 bottom
end ought to be fine.
If anyone can recommend a good place to get a short block at in the
Philadelphia area (I'm about 2 minutes from Cherry Hill, NJ) I would
appreciate it. I don't need a built up block, just a stock 302 short block
put together well and with decent quality parts at a fair price. I would
expect this engine to last at least 200,000 miles. I don't have a real
problem with spending $1,200 on a short block, but first I'd like to know
that it's worth it for what I'm getting. Anyway, I don't know any places to
get a short block so if anyone could point me in the right direction I'd
appreciate it.
Cory
Reply to
Cory Dunkle
When I was younger and lived in Cherry Hill, my dad would always get his used parts at Methvin's, I think it's in Mt. Holly or somewhere in that area. Big parts yard, always had lotsa stuff. Check the Yellow Pages for Camden or Burlington Co., you should find it.
Reply to
Mike Lenker
I don't know about anything lasting 200K, but there are short blocks available from several sources on the web. Just do a search on "Ford Short Block". You should be able to find a `68 302 for about five to six hundred all day long. Expect about another $200 if you decide to go with a long-block.
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I don't know where the yahoo you talked to got the $1200 price tag. You can buy a complete new Ford Racing 302 short-block for $1345.
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A couple of years back I went to a local engine rebuilding business (found them in the phonebook) and got a .40 over 350 chevy 2-bolt short-block for 299.99 with a core exchange. Long-blocks were $500.
Put it in my pickup and I have never had a lick of trouble with it. A little over 50k and still as strong as the day I put it in. Although gas milage sucks. I knew I shouldn't have gone crazy with that cam & double pumper :) I have been told I am not allowed to use a broadsword to disprove ?The Pen is Mightier than the sword?.
Reply to
ZombyWoof
When I sold my '67 Galaxie it had 202,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. The compression was within a couple PSI on all cylinders when I checked about 3,000 miles before I sold it. At 199,500 miles it had a 'catastrophic failure', that is to say I was playing too hard and snapped a rocker stud (I break 'em good). It was mainly from the unevenly worn valve tips, but the obscenely high RPM probably had something to do with it too. ;) I put the old beat heads from my 302 on it and it kept on going, though it blew a little oil after that from the worn valve seals, and was down on power from the open chamber heads (only 100 PSI, and low on two cylinders from the bad heads). If I was smart I woulda swapped my good heads and intake onto the 289 and put that in the '68. Even with 200k miles it pulled hard and would scream like a banshee, at least when it had the closed chamber heads on it.
So anyway, I'd hope for 200,000 miles without major failure. Maybe that's not realistic with a 302, but I would expect at least 150,000 without any trouble from the bottom end. I just want something decent that I'll get my moneys worth out of.
That price sounds more like what I was expecting. I just sent an e-mail to those guys you linked to. I was hoping to find a place to get it locally to save on shipping... How much should I expect to pay for shipping? I'd rather spend the money on shipping and know I'm not getting ripped off and get a decent engine.
I though $1200 was high. I thought for $1200 I could get a long block. I don't think a need a Ford Racing short block. I'll be running ~180 PSI compression (stock cam and '66 closed chamber 289 heads), but won't be turning above 5,000 RPM or so. Just a daily driver with a little extra pep.
I'll see what I can find in the phone book and call around.
Heh heh. This is my daily driver so I'm keeping it mild. I thought about going toa 351W but decided against it for mileage as well as installation troubles. The 180 PSI compression with the 289 heads should help with power and mileage, the Mustang aluminum intake won't hurt, and that 500 CFM VS Holley is small enough that my mileage ought to be pretty good. Before I killed the engine I got 17 MPG on the highway with a 1.23 venturi Autolite 2100 (bigger than stock) with one cylinder at 60 PSI and another at 90. I expect to get roughly that with the new engine, though with that compression I'll now be burning 93 octane instead of 89. :) I _love_ the smell of high octane and burnt rubber!
Cory
Reply to
Cory Dunkle
On Sun, 29 Feb 2004 17:23:31 GMT, "Cory Dunkle" wrote something wonderfully witty:
Didn't mean to imply it wasn't doable. Just outside my expectation range. Personally I get bored easy and never have kept a vehicle long enough to get 200K on the clock so I wouldn't really know. Haven't seen many on the road with over 200K on the clock either. I know they must be out there, just usually diesel MB's.
If I had to guess I would say a c-note or so.
I realize that. Just wanted to show that you could get a racing short-block for damn close to what your local guy was asking for a normal build. For a normal long-block build 1K is about the going rate for a pedestrian run of the mill V-8 engine.
I have been told I am not allowed to use a broadsword to disprove ?The Pen is Mightier than the sword?.
Reply to
ZombyWoof
I didn't mean to sound like a smart-ass or anything. Sorry if I came across that way. I know you were just comparing that for the same rpice I could get a really tough short block. Thanks a lot for the advice... I appreciate the time and knowledge you've put into your replies.
Cory
Reply to
Cory Dunkle
On Mon, 01 Mar 2004 05:40:52 GMT, "Cory Dunkle" wrote something wonderfully witty:
God I hate this forum. You didn't sound like a smart-ass and I wasn't pissed. Your welcome. I have been told I am not allowed to use a broadsword to disprove ?The Pen is Mightier than the sword?.
Reply to
ZombyWoof

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