95 Pathfinder Surprise

My SE V6 VG30i had been running like a Swiss watch until Thursday night at

9PM. While accelerating to get on I 95, at about 3500-4000 rpms, the automatic was going through the gears as usual. Without a sputter, knock or notice, the motor suddenly stopped. During coasting and while stopped, the starter turned the motor over, and I knew I had compression, just no spark. (not a timing belt or blown cylinder). AAA towed it in to a convenient upscale shop. I really didn't have a choice, I was just glad to have it off the road. They said the rotor had cracked ( I had about 20k on a replacement) and claimed it was in pieces when they took of the cap. They replaced the rotor and cap for $150.US. nice rip eh? The car started and I drove off. I went around the block and quickly discovered a lack of power. I returned immediately, and told the guy it wasn't running right. He said they would have spent more time on it if I would have had an appointment. Angered, I took it home to my garage. I took off the cap, rotor (at least their replacement looked like quality), pulled the plugs(a little worn), visually inspected the Crank Angle Sensor (looks like a CD player of sorts), changed the fuel filter, and still the same poor performance (like a potato is stuck in the muffler). I ran the timing light, and noticed it is slightly retarded. I advanced the position of the distributer as far as it would go, and checked timing again. It was back in the same place as it had been before, so I assume the Crank Angle Sensor is working. The most surprising thing is the ECU under the passenger seat. I wanted to run codes, but on my particular model, you need a remote control tool,(special Nissan Part #) There is no ON or OFF button to set to take readings.

For the experts:

What would make a rotor disintingrate? Why would a smooth running Pathfinder, change to a POS, within an instant? Last but not least, can I still avoid a Dealership? or is it Game Over?

-- Justbrilliant

Reply to
Justbrilliant
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Yeah, whatever you do, stay away from that damn nasty dealer. After all, what the hell would they know about fixing your PF? For a guy like you, I suggest you take it to one of those tire shops that claims to double as a repair shop. Even if they don't get the diagnosis on your engine right the first or even the second time, at least they will sell you those shiny new ball joints, shocks, tie rods, and center link that you REALLY needed.

Reply to
Harry Balls

Harry,

I guess you're occupation is tire changer?

Reply to
Justbrilliant

Try a new set of plug wires. My Pickup was running on 5 cylinders because of a bad wire...thus lack of power.

Jim Rojas Devoted Nissan Owner - 1989 4x4 Pickup, 1993 4x4 Pathfinder

Reply to
Jim Rojas

When was the last time you checked the Catalytic converter? That can also cause your problem.

Jim Rojas

Reply to
Jim Rojas

Don't get suckered into buying a $50 set of Bosch wires. A good set will run you $15-20 at Autozone. I replace mine every year or two anyway, so why spend more than you need to?

Jim Rojas

Reply to
Jim Rojas

I asked why the theft deterrent module inside my 99.5 PF would just up and fail at 41K miles. And why that module was not serviceable. And why I had to fork out $600 bucks to have the entire distributor replaced. And if I could ever trust my PF to go long distances again.

I didn't get any answers so I drove it to a Chevy dealer and traded it.

Reply to
Mind Melt

That job requires intelligence. I think Mr. Balls is a french fry technician at Burger King.

Reply to
Mind Melt

Nope. My point is, you want your PF fixed right the first time, but you don't want to take it to the place where all they know is Nissans. Do you get pissed off when your cardiologist refers your bladder problem to a urologist?

Reply to
Harry Balls

After reading some of your posts here before, melt, I wouldn't be cackling too loud if I were you.

Reply to
Harry Balls

Should have said so in the first place. I finally figured how to run the self test with the ECU and ECCS.. no codes. I am going to drive it a while and see the ECU will relearn its settings.

Last time I used the dealer was for the sheared manifold bolt problem.. $750. to fix.

Reply to
Justbrilliant

I take that back, you're not smart enough to push buttons with little pictures of burgers and fries on them.

Reply to
Mind Melt

Melt, why do you keep lowering yourself? You keep insulting me to hide the fact that you don't know much about Nissans. Why don't you use the opportunity to learn from others who know more about these vehicles than you do?

Reply to
Harry Balls

Solved- and thanks for the help. Harry and Melt chill out..

As I thought originally, timing was out. It was out 20 degrees. On the first pass, I didnt move the dist. far enough. Runs fine now. The shop claims they didn't change the timing.. I swear it was running perfect before the rotor episode.. Maybe the timing had been off for a long time?

I got sucked into following the sticker on the side of the ECU.. On my Pathfinder, all you have to do is push the passenger seat up, which exposes the green and red code lights.

Reply to
Justbrilliant

Yeh I guess I am lowering myself by replying to someone that chose Harry Balls for a pseudonym.

I'm a back yard mechanic. I can work on foreign and domestic. Biggest job I did was back in 1987. Pulled the motor and transaxel from underneath a Ford Fiesta. The motor had a broken rod from being run without oil. The driver did a Dukes of Hazzard over railroad tracks and broke the oil pan then drove off unknowing the oil was leaking out. I bought another engine from a junk yard and used it for a short block since the exhaust valve seats for the inner two cylinders were cracked and I don't trust peened in valve seat replacements. The head on the original motor was ok however, I took it to a shop and had it rebuilt since it was proactive to do just that. I had basic tools back then. No air. I put a new clutch in also. The motor started on the first crank when I was done with it. And the person, a friend of mine, drove it for an additional 35K miles and thusly wrecked it.

Let me make a final suggestion to you, n*****ts :) It doesn't take a rocket scientist to work on Nissan shit. I know more about Nissan products than some, and less than others. Give me the tools that a Nissan dealer tech would have and a service manual and I can pretty much handle any mechanical or electrical problem. I've been a trouble shooter practically all my adult life. This will be my last reply to you as I am adding you to my delete filter.

Reply to
Mind Melt

Just a little advice, melt. Stick to giving advice on what you know. It may surprise you that a Ford Fiesta has almost nothing in common with a Nissan. And just because you actually fixed a car once (congratulations BTW) doesn't mean you know everything about all cars. Any good troubleshooter (which you claim to be) will get as much information about the problem and the related systems as possible before spouting off about their "expert" diagnosis. As you have shown here and in other threads, you just don't know much about the systems Nissan uses or the common problems they have.

Reply to
Harry Balls

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