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Electrical problem - long story

I will still fooling around with the fuse box today. I pulled all the fuses at once and lit up my voltmeter set to 20 DC and hooked up to a good ground. All seemed OK with the ignition on but not started. I noticed that in a couple of fuse slots where the two pinchers that grip the fuse spade were a little wider apart than the others. These were where the fuse taps were installed and probably spread them. I pried them closer together with the voltmeter pointed probe. After I started the car, almost everything was worked as it should. OBP port, radio, AC all worked. The battery icon on the dash was out. Just two things need more probing. The Brake indicator on the dash, and the slight misfiring. I Checked the ECU with an OPD II reader, and had 14 errors, probably due to the battery being disconnected overnight. I cleared the srrors and rescanned, but I still have 6 errors left. I'll check in a week or so to see if they clear, or at least get down to 2, so I can pass inspection at the end of this month. I'll work on that Brake light later. If I can't get it to go out, its no big deal, but I do want to fix that idle problem and hesitation. Thanks to everyone that helped.

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willshak
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willshak wrote the following:

Should be " I was still..." I started typing 'was' and thinking about the next word at the same time. :-)

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willshak

Success on the saga below. All my fault when using fuse taps. I had put a fuse tap on the Eng Control fuse some time ago.. I had moved that fuse tap to another Ignition fuse during my movement of the GPS electrical socket. The following may be hard to put into words, and I don't know the proper nomenclature, but if you've ever looked into a automobile fuse box, you'll understand. The fuse socket for the Engine Control had two different connectors for each of the fuse's legs. The bottom connector was what I assumed was the standard fuse connector, two metal vertical 'bars' ( | | ) that the fuse leg slips between, pinching the fuse leg and making the electrical contact. However, the top connector did not have the 'bars', but had two 'spike' type connectors that pinched the fuse leg. I did not know this. I had put the fuse tap on the top leg of the fuse and thereby stretched the 'spikes' apart. The day before I was going to take the car to the repair shop and get it fixed before my inspection would pass, I decided to again try to fix it myself. With the Ignition on, but the engine not started, I was pushing on all the fuses to make sure that they were seated right, when I came to the Engine Control fuse. I pushed on it and I heard a click noise somewhere in the dash or engine compartment. I moved the fuse back and forth and the noise repeated with each push. It was then that I realized that the 'spikes' had been stretched apart by the fuse tap. I was not able to reset the spikes with any pointy tool, so I redid what had caused the problem, I put a fuse tap.on the top fuse leg and pushed the fuse back in. I didn't connect anything to that fuse tap. It was just used as a spacer. Everything worked after that. I was able to get my car inspected with 0 faults on the computer.

Moral. If you have to use a fuse tap, look in the fuse socket and only use the fuse leg that has the | | connector.

willshak wrote the following:

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willshak

willshak wrote the following:

Forgot the link to a pic of the fuse box

formatting link

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willshak

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