Electrical problem - long story

willshak wrote in news:X6WdnfNcOeER9T_WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:

that might be "limphome mode".

perhaps there's an underhood fuseblock with a blown fuse? you may have added too many accessories.

Jim Yanik wrote the following:

That's what I suspected.

But I didn't add anything new. I just moved a power socket to replace a cable. I hadn't touched anything in the fuse box until I discovered the problem I don't see any under hood fuse blocks, just a relay box for the following 5 items:

1. Fuel Pump relay
2. AGI relay
3. A/C relay
4. Clutch/Inhibit relay
5. Horn relay

willshak wrote in news:X6WdnfJcOeHxCz_WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:

at this site,you can download Nissan factory manuals,1 section per 24hr period;

then you can look at the wiring schematics for your model.

The first thing I would do is to use a DVOM and check for power on both sides of the fuse , if the add on components have an inline fuse check that also.

Next check for power at the component .

Last but not least make sure you have a good ground.

NissTech wrote the following:

Thanks, Nisstech. A couple of other things I forgot to mention.

1. The parking brake indicator on the dash is constantly lit, although the brake is completely retracted.
2. The battery icon on the dash is dimly lit at all times when the key is in the ON position.. I suspect that the dimly lit battery icon might be the best clue to what is wrong, but I don't know what it means. Maybe when I moved the power socket and pulled its wires out from under the dash to lengthen them, I might have scraped the insulation off one which is causing a dead short. I will check that later when it gets warmer out. I will report if I find anything

Usually points to blown main (75A?) breaker. It's a 1/2" square block with clear lid in the engine bay fuse box. 75A ones are grey. Lower amp ones for lights are green and brown.

Every Nissan has one so breakers yards are full of them.

Peter Hill wrote the following:

Mine doesn't. At least I can't find one. I know what you mean and I have seen them in other cars, but not this one. The only thing resembling a breaker box is on the passenger side fender wall, but it states it contains 5 relays, consisting of;: Fuel Pump Relay, EGI Relay, A/C Relay, Clutch Inhibit Relay, and Horn Relay. The first 4 are blue and they all have the same model numbers, The Horn relay is black. .

NissTech wrote the following:

New problem not discovered before. The AC does not blow cold air. The AC indicator light has the blue light, so it is not a blown cigarette lighter fuse, as you correctly blamed the some time ago when my AC wasn't working and even the blue light was out.. My cig lighter fuse is OK and the cig lighter works. There is a fuse in the fuse box for Radio/AC, which could be the problem with the radio and AC, but it too is OK as checked with an Ohmmeter. Perhaps the fuse box is bad? Still I don't think that is the problem with the OBD socket not working. I was wondering if disconnecting the battery for a while and then reconnecting it would kinda reboot the computer as it does with home computers.

willshak wrote in news:K-

6dnY0zIdFRQD7WnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:

yes,that will clear the memory and "reboot" it(meaning the ECU has to relearn your system's sensors.) I'd be worried that the OBD port is not working.

I can't believe there are recent cars without master power distribution in the engine compartment,with a main fuse and perhaps major branch fuses.

you can DL Nissan factory service manuals,ONE section per 24hr period.

DL the electrical section,check the schematics.

a few days,and you'll have the most needed parts of the service manual for your vehicle,archived on your PC or a flash drive(PDF files),ready for printout as needed.

Jim Yanik wrote the following:

I already have the full 97 nissan pickup manual, but I don't see my problem explained. I disconnected the battery and will wait til tomorrow to hook it back up. We'll see what happens. The last time I did that, it was just a day before a state inspection, and I failed because the computer didn't have enough mileage to reset all the error messages. I got it down to 2 before they would pass the truck at a re-inspection. The other 2 reset after a few days. I've got 2 weeks before the annual inspection is due.

willshak wrote in news:K-6dnYkzIdGdnznWnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:

Of course not.Why would a factory manual discuss problems caused by amateur modified wiring? But examining the electrical schematic may show you places to check.

Hmm,if your OBD-II port is not working,they may fail it...some states use it for their inspection,instead of a tailpipe exhaust analyzer.

willshak wrote the following:

Just an update: I hooked up the battery this morning and nothing had changed. I checked the battery and got a 12.5 Volt reading without the engine running, so the alternator is keeping it charged, but still . OBD port not working No Radio No AC Brake light lit on dash with brake off. Battery icon on dash dimly lit. Idling at about 500 RPM. I still feel that slight engine hesitation in my gut when driving.

willshak wrote in news:NM6dnSkYe5fSqzjWnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@supernews.com:

and you still haven't done what NissTech suggested.

You remind me of guys I used to work with;they'd ask for help,then when you suggested something,they didn't bother to try it.

I'm outta here. good luck.

It ain't gonna fix itself!

Peter Hill wrote the following:

No, it isn't. I haven't been sitting here waiting for someone to give me the definite solution. I have been under the dash and under the hood many times over the last 3 days pulling fuses, and checking wires. I have done what others have suggested, but I am trying to avoid pulling the dash apart and removing seats to get to the computer unless absolutely necessary. But, thanks for your comment. I never though of that..

Have you found the main circuit breakers yet?

Try other side of engine bay, near headlamp.

Peter Hill wrote the following:

I haven't found them, if there are any to begin with. I do most all my own work. I have been under the hood hundreds of times since 1997 changing filters, spark plugs and wires, distributer cap and rotor, headlights, and fan belts, etc. I know that they should be on the engine bay's side walls near the top where they can be easily worked on. Like I said earlier, the only thing there that resembles an engine bay fuse box, is a black box containing 5 relays on the passenger side fender wall. Today, I'm going to pull the most likely fuses and test if there is current in the fuse receptacle when the ignition is on. I'm just looking for help before I have to take it to the dealer or mechanic and have them start replacing things until they find the answer.

willshak wrote the following:

Found them, I think. They're not in the engine bay, but up over the fuse box in the dash. They're hard to see unless you lay on the floor and look up, and look even harder to get out. I'll see if I can get them out without removing the fuse box, or dash panel. I wish they would use the same type locking tabs on all plugs, rather than trying to figure out if you should push the release tabs, lift them, or have to use a special tool..

I pulled all the fuses and with the DC voltmeter set at 20 and the ground wire attached to a good ground, I got a percentage point over 12 volts in each one, whether it is an accessory, engine, or battery slot.

Have you checked that everything has got a good ground connection, with negligible resistance (as NissTech mentioned)?

This interaction of problems has all the hallmarks of an inadequate ground connection somewhere.

John