Hesitation/cutting out at speed when engine is warm .. help!

I have a 93 Mercury villager. (Aka Nissan Quest). I've had the van a short time, and pumped some cash into a new timing belt, etc. She starts, and seems to run fine. But today, when coming back from getting new tires. She seemed to be starved for gas. Around 35-50 miles an hour. You can press on the accelerator, and she'll hesitate, almost like she's going to cut out. If you floor the gas peddle, she kicks down a gear, and seems for a bit. Turning off overdrive seems to help a little, but when you get to a certain speed, she starts to act up again. She's had a full tune up (plugs, wires, cap rotor, fuel/air filter, pcv valve, timing belt/water pump). I've checked the transmission fluid, and it's not low.Mind you, this doesn't seem to happen until she's all nice and warm. What type of things should I start looking at? Any insight would be GREATLY appreciated.

Reply to
clevere
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Bosch platinums? Could be the start of a MAS dieing, ussually caused by the use of cheap air filters..

Reply to
Steve T

I had a fuel injected vehicle (TBI) that did the same thing. What I found was a break in the rubber fuel line that connected the fuel pump output (inside tank) to the tank header inside and on top. This dropped the fuel pressure enough to allow the fuel to boil inside the steel fuel line routed closely to and all around the engine when accelerating while the line and motor were at operating temp. Maybe you have a fuel delivery problem?

Reply to
Meat-->Plow

Could have cracked a plug putting it in. They are usually fine while fitted it's only putting in and taking them out that puts cracks in them.

Don't bother with anything other than NGK plugs.

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Reply to
Peter Hill

I'd like to negotiate the purchase of the Nissan electronic contents from your scrap bin, especially MAF's. Say $25 per cu ft + post to UK?

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

Cores are worth $100. I'd be glad to sell you the ones that cause running problems for this price if you want em.

Reply to
Steve T

By cores do mean the alloy body without the hot wire module? Bet whoever is giving you $100 for them wouldn't like one without the hot wire module.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

Core: as in a defective unit i.e. one that makes the car run bad when it's installed on the car. I'll gladly see you some MAS's that make a car run bad for $100 each if you want them.

Reply to
Steve T

Do you give you customers a $100 allowance for the old bits that you keep and sell?

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

Could be that your coil is beginning to break down, if it is always at the same revs, then it is most likely an electrical prob. If it is always under the same load, it is most likely a fuel prob. It is a rule of thumb but not a defining rule, cars do some weird things and can be real headaches. Just go through the basics until you find the problem. Fuel Air Spark. Checking for codes is not a bad idea either.

Scott.

Reply to
Scott

No, we just don't charge them the core charge we have to pay when we buy them rebuilt. Have you ever worked in the bussiness or understand what a "core" is?

Reply to
Steve T

I've not worked in the USA. "Core" to me is a radiator core - the water tube matix without header tanks.

UK stuff that can be rebuilt/reconditioned is just an exchange.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

I would assume you pay a fee until you return this exchange part there as well? In the USA this is called a "core charge" and the broken item is refered to as a "core". Again I'll gladly sell you all the dead MAS's you want for the $100 core charge, which is the extra amount the part would cost without an exchange broken unit. And again the customer isn't charged this $100 fee so there is no money being made returning them or selling them to you as you insinuated.

BTW why assume I'm stealing people's money and the other insults you keep throwing at me? Have you got something against professional mechanics in general or just the on-line ones trying to help people with their FREE time?

Reply to
Steve T

Yes we have deposits on service exchange items.

How is suggesting someone pay $100's for fitting of a vapor and/or ultrasonicaly cleaned exchange MAF so helpful? The first course of action is to clean the thing, cost, a $5 can of carb cleaner and less than 5 min of labor! Undo the two screws that hold the module in the MAF body. Slide the module out, check resistors are there and attached to pins [1], spray carb cleaner over resistors in direction of air flow to soften muck and in reverse direction to blast it off. Inspect and repeat if needed. Re-fit and drive.

How many have you cleaned? (If you spray though the small air hole in the body it only cleans the flow wire, not the reference wire and that's one that's really caked in coke) How many were still faulty after cleaning?

I'ld call $250 for a $10 job theft. You would need to invoice the diagnoses on top of that $10, so maybe $50-$60 total.

[1] most unlikely as vehicle would be in limp home mode if this was the case.

-- Peter Hill Spamtrap reply domain as per NNTP-Posting-Host in header Can of worms - what every fisherman wants. Can of worms - what every PC owner gets!

Reply to
Peter Hill

Want to buy ours?

Because it will fix their car?

It's never fixed any I've cleaned ultrasonic or otherwise, I gave up after about a dozen.

So someone who bought an ultrasonic cleaner should only charge $10 and absorb the cost of the equipment themselves? I guess we should charge $5 to use a $3500 scan tool on someones car as well? Obviously you are on the

-paying- end of this and feel mechanics should lose money working on your car!

Feel free to offer your own advice rather than going around insulting people, but somehow I don't think that's your style.

Reply to
Steve T

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