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Sentra N14 rear seal - how to do?

Tomorrow I'm going to either lift the engine or drop the transmission to replace the rear crankshaft seal (GA15DE - for practical purposes, almost the same as more common GA16DE). I'm 99% sure it's the rear crank seal, but there's always a chance it isn't. After giving it a good clean, there's a constant drip from the drain hole next to the inspection plate on the bottom of the bellhousing. I know I can get the engine out separate from the trans - there's enough room to shift it left a few inches to clear from the trans (I've done it before). The worst part IMO is dealing with A/C and PS pumps, alternator etc - oh and it means removing only one axle, rather than both. I just have a fear that if I drop the transmission, then I'll either do the seal but miss seeing somewhere else where it's leaking engine oil, or I'm going to be working with bad access and stuff up the new seal installation. So what would you do - drop the trans or lift the engine? I have a workshop at home with a pit, a crane, stands etc.

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should find the info here...Striker

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Striker

Thanks - I have the FSM. Engine is out - about 4 hours. The seal was leaking badly - as I expected. There's a bit of seepage round the sump, so I'll reseal that too. I damaged the rubber boot on the lower suspension arm ball joint, but I think I can get a replacement boot. Apart from that no real problems.

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Actually after starting work on it this morning, it's really much better to remove the sump anyway, as there are two studs on the seal retainer that go through the sump lip. I don't know if it would even be possible to lever off the retainer with the sump in place without risk of cracking the alloy retainer, and even if this could be done, there would be no way to get it back in place with a good placement of sealant between retainer and the sump rim. So, while dropping the trans might seem less hassle, by the time the exhaust and sump is removed in situ, lifting the engine out might be the better way, especially if you don't have a hoist. The original seal was worn and very very hard (I don't know mileage of the engine, but guess perhaps 120,000km). There's slight scoring on the crank, but I'll leave it, as it seems to be scored well inside and away from where the new seal lips sit. The factory seal was black compound, both Nissan OEM replacement and non OEM seals are brown - they appear identical, but Nissan price is about 4 times more.

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Browsing the FSM looking for torque settings, it says you can't lift/drop AT trans/engine separately. Not true - I've done it twice.

Job done - perhaps 9-10 hours total. Total parts cost about US$30. No leaks now. Worst part of the job, placement of PS mounting bracket, lower heater hose, and the rear engine mount can be a real PITA. Otherwise just normal, methodical, and tedious.

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