Which starter to buy?

Chuck Tribolet cried out

The post I read that made me first comment was saying to run a jumper from the battery to the starter. This is NOT paralleling the normal wiring, this is closing the circuit. Paralleling the wiring would be running a jumper from the battery to the input side of the sylenoid

Reply to
Rosco
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"To check this out, take a jumper cable and run it from the + on the battery to where the big cable attaches to the starter, then try to start it with the key."

So that's not going to close the circuit, until you turn the key.

Please read the thread before you engage keyboard.

Reply to
Chuck Tribolet

Total BS.

And has 240 volts! The VOLTAGE + the amps are what will kill you. It's the main reason they haven't gone to 48 volt electrical systems.. Why do you think they make outdoor lawn lighting 12 volts rather than 120?

Again BS, 240 volts X 200 amps is 48,000 watts. A car battery at 500 amps is

6,00 watts, not ever close to the same "power, but then anyone with any background in electrical work would know that.

Nothing will happen.

Again, it's amazing the dumb things people post on-line..

Reply to
Steve T

Who said anything about the ignition system?

And I've never heard of anyone being killed by being shocked from a plug wire so it must not be easy to do either.. This BS about 500 cold cranking amps at 12V being a "lethal amount or power" is just that, BS.

Reply to
Steve T

When you let off the key, the solenoid disengages, so any EMF wouldn't transfer to the post being held.

Reply to
Steve T

the solenoid disengaging is what causes the counter-EMF The magnetic flux being developed by the coil all of a sudden have no where to go so they collapse back to the coil. With no return path to ground. the very high resistance makes the voltage so high at the post. Basic electronics.

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Reply to
metoo

Chuck Tribolet cried out

EH, Wrong, ever delt with an older ford pick-up the starter sylednoid is right next to the batter, no where near the starter!

Reply to
Rosco

The solenoid is a relay. When you disengage it, any EMF would NOT discharge to the positive post on the solenoid the battery cable connects to, the coil isn't connected to that post! There might be some voltage at the trigger wire but the low ohms of a solenoid coil (go measure one) isn't going to create a high voltage spike that would cause a severe shock like an ignition coil is going to. Basic electronics..

Reply to
Steve T

Read what I said: "In every MODERN starter". You said "older ford pickup".

Solinoids moved onto the starter a long time ago to reduce the manufacturing cost.

Reply to
Chuck Tribolet

Ok you got me.

I do remember using the master key ( Any metal that you can find, wire, screwdriver, key,etc) more then once to energize the solenoid and get it started. many times I remember a hell of a shock. You made me think about it because you are right. Next time I do it I will be sure to take the screwdriver off the solenoid before I take it off the hot post and that should allow me to avoid the hi voltage of the counter-emf. However I still disagree with you about the high voltage spike. without going into a lot of detail ( I have been employed in the electronic field since 67 and earned my BSEE in 73) I will just remind you that the dc resistance of that ignition coil is also very low. The counter-emf depends on the number of windings ( And a larger wire size would mean less dc resistance but not much effect on the voltage induced by the magnetic field passing tru the windings)

I would take a bet that I could measure at least 1000 volts within .5 milliseconds of the collapse of the magnetic field in most solenoids

Reply to
metoo

Hmm I think I would stop doing something that gave me a hell of a shock after the first time it happened, but hey that's just me...

But there isn't large voltage created on the low ohm side is there? The high voltage is created on the high ohm side of the coil.

I have no idea but is seems if this was true, you'd have a major problem with this voltage spike being sent back to the ignition switch and quickly burning them or the starter relay up if this was the case. 1000 volts is going to jump across relay points in free air and they sure wouldn't last very long.

Reply to
Steve T

HMM I have always felt a need to charge up every once in a while It keeps me from being stupid like you

You better read up Google is your friend, I don't need to tell you again, you just want to argue!

maybe that is way we put damping diodes and capacitors across relay coils.

But that voltage is there and you can do something about it if you want to. lots of designs don't do anything about it. You better read up Google is your friend, I don't need to tell you again, you just want to argue!

Reply to
metoo

OK let's see, you repeatedly gave yourself a "hell of a shock" doing the same thing over and over many times and then call me stupid? How many times did it take for you to figure out not to put your hand on a red hot cooktop eye?

Maybe you should research what the secondary side of the ignition coil is made for. Hint: it's to create the high voltage that can shock you. Hint 2: A starter solenoid doesn't have a secondary winding.

That is to protect sensitive electronics that can be damaged from MINUTE current flow at anything over their base voltage. Doesn't mean these can be felt by a human (they can't) much less kill them.

If there was a thousand volts at a high enough current to kill a human, it would fry a starter relay or switch in a VERY short period of time.

Reply to
Steve T

Yes I heard about you dumbass flamers try to be a expert in my field and just show what a Aholde you can be.

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I am sure you can find fault in my links above since no one knows more then you about anything. I will design electronic circuits and you can tell me how they will work or not,

Reply to
metoo

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