This morning, my 93' Nissan 240SX does not want to start. This is the 1st time this is happening. I had one other owner give me a Jump Start, thinking it may be a dead battery - but did not help,
Any idea what may be the problem ?
Can the problem may be with the starter ? Is this very expensive to fix ?
"A Nissan Owner" wrote in news:wI9mb.10453$ snipped-for-privacy@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net:
I assume that teh engine does not turn over at all? Could be dirty contacts on the battery or at the starter solenoid. Try shorting the large wire to the small wire on the starter solenoid. If that turns over the engine the solenoid is at fault. You can have the started tested at most parts stores if you remove it and take it to the store. Starters are not that expensive on the after market.
It could be the relay or the lower clutch switch if its a stickshift. The clutch switch can be bypassed with a paper clip cut in half. If it makes a small click sound check the relay. On my '90 the relay is blue box on the inner fender right near the battery. I've had problems with the relay before with high contact resistance. The starter is a bitch to remove so check out these two first. Good Luck CR
Nissan
1993-240sx coupe or convertible. The vehicle will not always start even though you can hear the starter solenoid engage. First, make sure you have a good battery and the battery cables are tight and not cracked at the battery posts. Check all fuses no matter what they are for. The starter circuit looks like this. Battery plus to fusible link box (located behind the battery) to starter switch to inhibitor switch (A/T) to the starter solenoid. For (M/T) replace the inhibitor switch with an interlock relay & clutch interlock switch. To test the solenoid & Starter, disconnect the plug going to the starter solenoid (only one wire on 93 model) and connect a single cable ( 12 gauge or better) to the starter solenoid plug, NOT the other part of the connector going to the vehicle harness. Now touch this jumper cable to the positive battery pole a few times. The starter will run fast, loud and smooth if it is in good condition. If not, and you did the connection correctly, replace the starter. If the battery and solenoid work well, you have a current loss in the system. With my experience, on A/T models, owners overlook the Ignition switch. In the start position the contacts ware down usually around 80,000+ miles. The actual starter switch contact assembly can be removed very easily without removing the complete assembly. This poses a problem because on some models you can purchase this switch separately but on other models you have to replace the complete assembly at a price of $125.00+. Just the same you can test this switch by disconnecting the plug located under the steering column. This plug has five contacts and you will need a wiring diagram because different contacts are used in the on, acc or start mode. A good ohm meter will pick up problems as you turn the key and test the contacts. You should be experienced in using test equipment and know what scale to use and know what the readings mean. If you read 0 ohms in the on mode you must read 0 ohms in the start mode. I usually find an open or high resistance on one or more contacts in the start mode. I have seen owners replace batteries and starters a few times before testing the Ignition switch. On M/T models, always check the clutch interlock switch. Owners forget that every time they depress the clutch, the clutch interlock switch is being activated and the bi-metal in the switch will crack in time.I hope that this has been helpful. I advise all owners who are serious about repairing their vehicle to bight the bullet and purchase a real service manual from the factory.-- HowardL
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on my sx, i also get a dead response. I think my auto transmission shifter safety switch is out of adjustment. Try wiggling the shift lever and park downhill.
-- Charles Hassenboehler, Ph.D. Research Professor TANDEC/The University of Tennessee
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Charlie has a good point. The safety sw is also called the Inhibitor sw. It is located on the left rear side of the A/T. It has two connectors, one has two pins, 1 - 2 used to pass through park & neutral, the other has 7 pins 3-9 used to pass through 1,2,D,N,R & P. The starter circuit goes through the smaller plug marked 1 - 2. You can eliminate this switch by shorting pins 1 & 2 . The service manual shows how to adjust this switch if you are sure it is the problem. Replacing it can get expensive. Good luck.
-- HowardL
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