Code 0302 + 0304

Replace the knock sensor and hopefully the other code will go away too.

CD

But do you think they are related? I trhink they are different issues altogether!

Thanks,

-Manish Codifus wrote:

Yes.

CD

I think you may have the incorrect information on the codes you listed

P0300 - P0306 indicate a particular cylinder missfire P0300 is a "random cylinder missfire" P0301-306 are the individual cylinders 1-6 i.e P0301 cylinder 1 P0302 cylinder 2 and so on

The code for egr is P0400

you may want to get them read again

The FSM for my '96 says 0302 is EGR if you blink out the code on the MIL light and P0400 is EGR if you read it with a scanner.

Which way did you read your codes?

I read the codes manually by counting the long and the short blinks of the engine light.

Thanks,

-Manish

E Meyer wrote:

okay i got it checked and they say that the knock sensor is bad...they say have to replace it and quote abt 600$ for that...and i am not doing that....am I taking to much of a risk...please help?

Thanks,

-Manish

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

I replaced my knock sensor for $34. The knock sensor is in the valley of the engine block under the intake manifold. The trick is to find a 12 year old boy or a woman with really small hands (in may case the wife is 5'2" and

- about $600 worth.

The knock sensor will reduce your mileage to what you would get if you used regular instead of premium fuel. Pretty much no other effects. It would not be worth $600 to me to replace it.

$Whoah $600??

OK, the part costs like $100

The labor can be significant because if you don't have small hands, you have to remove your intake manifold. That price quote must assume big hands:)

CD

Like the others said, the knock sensor never trips the light. The other code did, and strangely enough the other code also tripped the knock sensor code. So if you get a code with the KS code, ignore the KS code until it's coming up all by itself. Only then is the computer actually telling you it thinks the knock sensor is bad.

If you do end up needing to change the KS:

The $600 KS quote is by the 'book' method - remove the intake manifold. But the book doesn't know the smart way.

It can be done without removing the manifold, using a 12" long 1/4" drive extension, 1/4" socket wrench, and a 12mm/1/4" drive wobble socket. It will reach in and onto the bolt and if you angle it as high as possible you should be able to crack the bolt loose. Unthread the bolt and remove it with a long extending magnet. Pull out the knock sensor by the harness.

Put the new knock sensor on the harness and move it into position. It really helps to have a set of very long needle nose pliers - you can get these at Harbor Freight for $5.

Then use something like some wax to fasten the bolt to the socket and patiently, carefully use the socket to thread the bolt in. Or get someone with skinny hands to get the bolt started for you. Once you get it started, the rest is gravy. Tighten it snug but not too tight.

Done. Average time under 30min.

Dave

Or someone with small hands. My wife threaded that KS in like it was nothing.

Thanks a lot all of you!!! I actually had one more error 0302 which says the EGR system Flow HI/LOW They ahcrged me 160 $ to diagnose this and an additional 150 dollars to clean the clogging in it as they said. I guess this has tripped the engine light now they have cleaned that up the engine light shudnt come up again!!!

Lets pray and hope for the best...these auto repair people just kill you!!!

Thanks,

-Manish

JimV wrote:

No sooner than this thread stopped, my '96 i30 came up with that same egr & ks codes (0302 & 0304 blinking on the mil light). The egr passages were clear, the EGR and bpt valve passed the tests in the FSM, but the egr temp sensor failed. Replaced the temp sensor and reset the computer (by turning the screw, no battery cable magic) and all the codes are gone.

Total cost $102 w/shipping for the temp sensor from everythingnissan.com plus about a week of skinned knuckles taking the top two layers of stuff off the engine to get to the egr & BPT valves.

The lesson learned here is to first test the temp sensor before tearing things down to get to the egr itself.