306 central locking wires replacement

Its central locking bounce time again and the wires from the connector on the drivers side door (that cause central locking bounce when broken) have been re-soldered too many times and are now quite short. I need to fit a new connector and wires.

Has anyone here replaced this connector and wiring before ?

Do all of the wires go down to the fuse box area near the accelerator pedal? How did you feed the wires through the hole in the door jam down to the fuse area ? Where is the hole where the wires re-enter the inside of the car ? (near the fuse box ?) How do you get to it ?

Can you do it without removing the door ?

Thanks.

Reply to
J
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To answer your questions. There is enough length in the wires to go down to the sill, where the main loom is for the door, but I don't do that. You do need to remove the door (just two bolts for the check strap and one bolt on each hinge, then lift off). On the new loom there are numbers, 1 to (I think) 23. You may not have all these on your car. You need a continuity tester. One by one cut the wires about an inch from the grommet and with the tester identify which pin number it goes to. (If you look at the plug you can just see the first and last number in each row---the first row is 1 to 3, the second row is 4 to 8, and so on) Make a note on paper of colour of wire and pin number. If two wires are the same colour then it's likely they will be different sizes (I just write down small, medium and large). Pull the grommet off the loom and put on the new loom down by the plug. Then join the wires to the new plug having first cut the wires to the same length plus 2 inches. It's easiest to use Raychem connectors, then heat shrink them. Any wires not used just cut about an inch shorter than the others and tape them up. They won't be live. Rehang the door temporarily, connect the plug, and test the various functions. Remove the door and using insulation tape, bind the loom tightly all the way to the plug. then push the excess loom into the body so that it loops downwards so any water will drip off the bottom of the loop. Put the grommet back in to place and rehang the door with the bolts and connect the plug. Hopefully all will now work. Good luck!

Reply to
Nigel

solder is less bulky though with shrink tube also get a chair in there its more comfy

Reply to
Mindwipe

Yes, I only use Raychems because I'm a losy solderer!! And definitely use a chair. Stops the back aching.

Reply to
Nigel

"J" wrote in news:cp6nmp$i0b$ snipped-for-privacy@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk:

Must be the time of year; mine's started doing the exact same thing last week.

French electrics... :-/

Reply to
southpawArcher

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