Price check on a 306 D-Turbo Radiator

I replaced mine a while ago and the radiator was £85 though that was from a family member with a parts shop. It was the same make as the original and I think he said it should have been £110. (Can't remember the make offhand)

As for fitting it......Nightmare! The main problem was with getting the compression pipe on the right hand side of the car back on with the limited room available. You have to use a large screwdriver to prise the pipe so it pops onto the join. It took me ages to do but that was my first try at a pug radiator (and hopefully my last!)

Make sure you bleed it correctly as the engine does tend to airlock.

Hope that helps

Konichiwa

Just had a quote from my local garage of £140 supply and fit. Peugeot dealer wants £285 supply and fit.

I would interested what other people have paid.

Thanks again

Peter

That's not a bad price - you'd expect to be paying £100 - 120 just for the rad, and it is a bit of a pig to do (bottom hose is an utter Ba$£&rd to get on and off) - you'll need a couple of hours, some elastoplast and a good vocabulary of swear words to get it done. For £140 I'd let the garage do it.

I'd definitely pay the £140 as I wouldn't want to do that job again.

genuine

I've changed the radiator on my 1995 XTdt twice. The first was about 4 years ago and I got the new radiator from a local radiator specialist. Cost about £140 but looked identical to the original peugeot radiator. Unfortunately, the radiator only lasted until Feb this year so I had to source another. This time I ordered online from Andy's Spares (now called GSF Car Parts at

That cost £80 +£6.95 delivery + VAT. Can't complain about that and the radiator looksfine.

I fit both myself. That lower bayonet radiator connection is the problem. When fitting my first radiator I was able to get it connected. Second time I just couldn't - ended up having to let a local garage bail me out. A little embarrasing. I've since learnt that the trick is to make the bayonet connection BEFORE fitting the radiator in it's correct position. I've not tried this myself but a couple of people I know who have say this made it much easier.

As other posters have mentioned, do make sure you bleed all the air out when refilling with coolant.

My website at

describes my radiator changing experiences to date along with a helpful diagram of the radiator connections.

Hope that helps, Stuart

Hi Stuart

Thanks for your info, don't really seeing me keeping the car much longer so If It lasts four years then that would be great.

How do you bleed the radiator? just in case the garage don't do it.

Cheers

Peter

There are 3 bleed screws at various high-level points in the cooling system under the bonnet. One is at the top of the radiator, I think another is near the bulkhead - behind the intercooler and the third I think is on the right hand side near the battery if I recall.

To do it properly you are supposed to create a temporary header tank over the top of the radiator cap and fill this with coolant. This ensures that as air is released from the system, new coolant is sucked in. I found an old coolant bottle turned upside down onto the radiator's opening did the trick. Saying that, I've seen garages not bother with the header tank and just keep topping up.

As the engine is running and the coolant is heating up, just keep releasing the bleed screws in turn and let any air out. When the cooling fan cuts in (be careful of this) you can seal the system but do keep an eye on the coolant temperature guage for a few days.

Hope that helps, Stuart