'99 9-5 rear brake pads DIY?

If they're anythink like the 9000, their very easy. But on the 9k you need a 7mm (!) allen key - a very rare tool.

That's a lot more than I'd expect, but it depends hugely on driving style and pad hardness.

Harder pads > less wear on pads (and less dust) but more wear on disks. I'd rather have softer pads any day.

If there was, the answer would be 42.

You may. But I must say that grumbling noises does not sound like brake pads to me. Sounds like maybe brake rotors (disks)? Or do you think you are down to the metal backings on the pads in whgich case the rotors should be closely inspected too.

No. Standard procedures apply.

Yes, that's about normal for the *rear* brakes. You probably did your fronts about 30k miles ago. Have you looked at those too? While you are at it, you may want to do them at the same time. Your call.

Yes. Absolutely. I am a big fan of the PBR Deluxe pads. These are excellent pads for street use, have very good feel, and leave very little dust. They also happen to be very inexpensive. OTOH, they would not be a good choice for someone racing, autocrossing or otherwise abusing (but I mean that in a good way...) their brakes.

-Fred W

You know, I'm sure there was a reason my eyes were drawn to the 7mm allen key in halfords the other day! They sell one complete with plastic handle. Think I might go and buy it tonight on the way home for when I get round to my pads. :)

David.

The pads were through to the metal, so I had metal-on-metal on the outboard pad right side, and was within 1mm of same on the left side. The rotors are fine so I decided not to go through all the work of turning them (the lathe is _all the way_ in the basement, after all).

Actually, I was surprised at how to do the rear brakes on a '99 Saab 9-5. For the sake of anyone googling for this in the future, here's the procedure I suggest:

1. Decide if you want to do the left or right side first.
2. Locate the _wheel_ on that side of the car. These are usually located along the sides, towards the back, and can be recognized by the black rubber _tire_ (tyre) which will be the part of the car touching the ground.
3. Remove the wheel by first slightly loosening the wheel bolts, jacking up the car, and removing the wheel bolts and wheel fully.
4. Using a 1/8" punch or equivalent tool, and a hammer or equivalent tool, (I do not suggest using any part of your body as "equivalent", metal is probably indicated although a rock can suffice for a hammer in a pinch), drift out the two pins which go through the two sides of the caliper and the slotted holes in each of the brake pads. The pins push from the out-board side of the car in towards the centerline, which is convenient unless you happen to be 1.5 feet (~0.5 meters) tall.
5. Remove the flat/bent steel spring which removing the above pins allows you to do. Pay attention to the orientation so you can pretend you'll remember long enough to put it back in (when really, you'll end up looking at the other side to double-check anyway).
6. Using a wide prybar or equivalent tool, push the pads back into the calipers far enough to withdraw the pads from the caliper. Press the pistons further in once the pads are out (I was able to use my thumbs for this).
7. Using the supplied (If you bought the Saab OEM pads) moly-kote grease, spread it as directed in the diagram on the back of the pads. It is not advised to put it on the front of the pads unless you want to not be able to stop very well.
8. Put the new pads back in where the old pads were, only bigger.
9. Figure out how that darned spring clip thingy goes in & grow a third hand to hold it in place while you put in the first pin.
10. Drive each pin in from the back (pointy-ish end towards the outside of the car). Get everything aligned by hand, and drive it home with light taps from a hammer. Don't miss the pins - lots of important stuff is right in that neighborhood. (Accruacy counts!)
11. Put the road wheel back on, loosely tightening the bolts.
12. Lower the car onto the wheel.

1. Tighten the wheel bolts.

2. Repeat steps 1 through 13 on the other side of the car.

Comments on this procedure are welcome; I don't mind if it ends up on someone's website somewhere as long as I get the blame for it.

Dave Hinz

All makes perfect sense to me. Infact sounds exactley like changing them on a C900, including the bit about not hitting any of the other important stuff down there.

Actually, it's considerably easier as there is no need to remove the caliper from the axle. 10 minute job for the second side I did.

Dave

I didn't need to remove the Caliper on my C900 either. Followed the Haynes and it was almost to the letter how you described it, including the bit about levering enough space to get the pads out, then pushing the pistons after.

Shouldn't you use a big c-clamp to move the calipers back? That's what I always do. The idea of levering on them makes me uneasy...

-Fred W

On my '88 900 Turbo, there was the 9mm allen wrench procedre to back off the pistons, rather than the "push it back in" method. So, the 9-5's rear brakes were a pleasant surprise, and I tried to overcomplicate it at first of course.

Dave Hinz

Mines an '85 Early T16.

Front handbrake jobby.

I tend to put the backing plate back in and lever against that rather than directley against the piston face.