Door Skin Removal - 1996 9000 CS

Hello Group,
Has anyone seen the correct procedure on a website for removing the rear door skins on a 1996 SAAB 9000 CS ?
Thank-you,
Kirk R.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
DFRANet wrote:

Hi there -
I recently had to take mine off to fix a stuck door on our old '92 9000. I got the info from the Haynes manual. I can't remember seeing anything on the web.. but from what I could see, it was fairly obvious what to do. All you need are a couple of torx drivers from your Saab toolkit. Takes about 10 mins..
Cheers
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nasty is correct it is pretty obvious. There are four main screws. One at each end of the big handle and one at each end of the storage pocket. Remove the plugs and caps to get at them. When you remove the light lens you will see a small bracket with a single screw that must be removed. If I remember correctly when you pry out the window switch (Be carefull not to break. I think there is a small slot for prying at one end) you will see another small bracket with single screw that holds in the black shield around the latch lever. There are a couple of snap fasteners on the edge of the panel that must be pulled out. A little force must be applied to pop the panel out of the window channel. Once you do it you should be able to repeat the process in 5 minutes instead of 10.
Good luck.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'm not sure about the terminology here, but I've always called the bit you describe a door card.
To me, a door skin is the steel panel on the outside of the door. If that's what the OP is talking about, then it's probably not very simple. I think it usually means a fair bit of drilling and grinding. If it was me, I think I'd be down the scrap-yard looking for a replacement door.
Cheers,
Colin.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I think door card is more of a British expression. I had never heard of a door skin and just assumed it was the interior panel. As you imply, it is hard to imagine replacing just the outside of the door.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Actually, it's not that hard replacing the outside of a door.
The outside is bent over the structural part and then crimped and spot welded. The easiest way to get the door "skin" off is to grind away the edge of the door all the way around, it'll fall off. You need to break the spot welds on the inside and then fit, crimp and spotweld the new one in place.
On 5/14/06 5:12 PM, in article snipped-for-privacy@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, "R. Frist"

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sun, 14 May 2006 23:16:49 GMT, Bill Jackson

Indeed, but as a DIY job on a 9000, surely a replacement door from a scrap-yard would be a lot less hassle (I assume they're not all rotten). It might even turn out cheaper than the repair panel.
If it was a much newer car, then it would be a different story.
Cheers,
Colin.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net says...

Common practice to cut costs when doing accident repair insurance work. They will quite often authorise skin replacment, but not door replacement.
--
Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
NeedforSwede2 wrote:

...and why not? There is a whole lot more to a door than just the outside sheet metal. So long as the job is done correctly I would not see a big problem sincce they will reassemble the door the same way it was originally assembled.
--
-Fred W

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Malt_Hound@*spam-me-not*yahoo.com says...

Because a bloke with a manual edge folder (if you are lucky he has a folder not a hammer and trusty lump of steel) and crimper can't place as much force and accuracy on the edge and frame as a pre-programmed industrial robot.
You get gaps that can't be painted, and rust gets in.
--
Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Tue, 16 May 2006 14:33:56 +0100, NeedforSwede2

You seem to have missed Fred's "So long as the job is done correctly..."

A craftsman can do as good or better work than an industrial robot.

Only if someone does a shitty job and doesn't care.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
R. Frist wrote:

Of course, the only person who can tell us exactly what they meant by "door skins" is nowhere to be seen. Typical (rolling eyes icon goes here)....
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nasty Bob wrote:

Good morning, the original poster is back from holidays.
Thank-you for all the responses. By "door skin" I meant the panels (cards) covering the inside of the two rear doors. I have to remove these to make some repairs. The black lock buttons on both doors have separated from the locking mechanism and one of the pull handles (to close the door when inside) has come out. I also plan to check for any rust inside the door near the problem.
I was going to make this part of the overall restoration of the car but it is used as my daily driver and as such I have rear passengers on a regular basis so it is now a priority.
Cheers, Kirk R.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Good morning, the original poster is back from holidays.
Welcome Back!
Thank-you for all the responses. By "door skin" I meant the panels (cards) covering the inside of the two rear doors.
Thought so ;)
I have to remove these to make some repairs.
Now you know how... sort of. Good luck & let us know how you get on.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Nasty Bob wrote:

I got the rear right card off. Took about 20 minutes. There should be 5 screws but mine only had 3. The two missing screws were the ones that hold the interior door handle in place. From the other side I was able to determine that the missing screws were 5mm Torx, 1/2" in length. My local supplier had the black HEX version in stock so I used them.
Unfortunately I found out that one of the round black plastic hinge mechanisms was broken. It keeps two metal rods together and attaches to the door frame. I need to locate at least two of these items. Does anyone know where they can be ordered from ?
Kirk R.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Your local scrap heap / car breaker??
If you mean the plastic studs that hold the metal linkage rods to the door, I broke one & we had to make a new fixing out of a metal bolt, a couple of nuts & some coat hanger wire...
Not pretty, but it works. And nobody will see it, & it should last as long as the car ;)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.