92 Saturn SL1 Maintenance Question

I've got a '92 Saturn SL1 w/ 100K of urban driving on it. Several months ago I took it to a dealer for routine service. Part of the service was a
tire rotation. I told them I just had the tires rotated just do the rest of the service but don't rotate the tires and don't charge me for rotating the tires. They replied they can't perform the scheduled maintenance w/o rotating the tires again. The maintenance wasn't done only an oil change was done. My question is does the drive train need to lubricated? What about the front end CV joints? The standard shift mechanism has become stiff and the door locks are harder to open. What should I use to lubricate the locks and shifter?
Thanks,
Mike
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IMHO you need to find a dealer who will do what YOU request. It is your money any they should be happy to do anything YOU want. I cannot imagine that this car is covered by any warranty and as a low mileage (for it's age) car would be expected to need special extra maintenance due to its lack of normal use and city driving. I would recommend short engine oil change intervals. You do not say what your climate conditions are but corrosion is likely to be causing more problems than wear.
AFAIK there are no lube points on the drive train but age may cause the CV joint boots to deteriorate and they should be checked regularly (at each oil change or any time grease shows up in your wheels, wheel wells or under the car).
I suspect that this car is in need of a half life major servicing. Don't let anyone sell you special fuel flushes or anything expensive but do the simple and inexpensive stuff.
I would recommend a transmission fluid (and filter if autotrans) change as this is cheap preventative maintenance. While you are at it change the power steering fluid. Likewise the engine coolant could probably use a change. Any oil will work for lock strikers and latches but there are some specialty lubes that will not collect dust or oil your clothing, you should also lube the hinge pins on the doors and hood, and wipers. The shifter cables and linkage may need to be disassembled to lubricate properly and are likewise probably suffering from lack of use.
Use only correct lock lube for the key locks and ignition, most garages will not have this lube but any locksmith can help you.
You may expect brake system problems due to old brake fluid, I would recommend a change of fluid if this has never been done. You are probably due for parking brake cable problems, not much you can do about it but do not be surprised and service them if you need to do anything with your rear brakes.
If you still have the original accessory belt (used to be called fan belt) they are cheap ($15) and can be changed in about 15 minutes. Save the old one for a spare, it is a perfect fit around the spare tire.
You may be due for new plug wires if they have not been changed. Save the old ones for spares, they will also fit with the spare tire.
Find a mechanic that understands older cars and will do what YOU need. A dealer may be more interested in convincing you that it is time to trade for new or (shudder) newer but slightly?? used. Better to stay with what you know. This car has depreciated about as much as it is going to and has lots of life left if kept oiled properly.

of
the
lubricate
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No, it's not covered by any warranty. However, I faithfully have it serviced. The last scheduled maintenance was somewhere around 100K - rotate tires, lube locks, and I don't remember what else. They weren't trying to sell me extra work, just perform the scheduled eminence, which I always have done. They wanted me to pay for a tire rotation which was done by the dealer. I drive 5K - 6k a year and change the oil every 3 - months. I live in the mid Atlantic region snowy winters and hot humid summers. I use Castrol GTX 5w - 30w. Been thinking to changing to 10w - 30w. I don't buy oil or gas additives. It;s a standard transmission at 69K I had the tranny oil changed, The dealer told me tranny oil lasts a lifetime, yeah right. Flush the coolant every 30k, been thinking I should flush it more frequently due the low annual mileage. Plug wires and fan belt changed around around three years ago., break fluid changed about four years ago. I'm going to look for a mechanic and dump the dealer. What is half life maintenance?
The car is almost perfect for urban driving eg, easy to park, don't worry about dings, reasonable gas mileage, etc. I hope to get a couple more years out of it. It's got some rust around the roof where it meets too sunroof and I've managed to destroy the plastic grid under the bumper by head in parking to close the curb. A friend has a 2001 or 2002 Toyota Camry that I'm going to buy in a year or so.
Thank you for your very helpful advice,
Mike

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imagine snip
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It burns about a quart of oil every two months.

I really don't notice anyy change in the clutch or how it reacts. A buddy got 180K out of his clutch on a 92 SL1 (highway driving)

"This is helpful, I'll make not to change it around 19K more miles.

OK
Will do.

Radiator hoses changed last year.
Check the PCV valve and the air filter (or change, it is

Last year, changed EGR vALve and cannisters due engine error code. Don't remember about the PCV valve.
Inspect the motor mount rubber (I doubt you have a problem but

Will do.
Check the

Will check.

Fuel filter replacement was part of the scheduled maintenance that was not performed during my last service visit.

The original rotors gave me a fit. If I didn't use the car for a couple of weeks the brakes would stick and I had toengage the clutch and gas to break them use.

I've been negligent w3ith the body work and need to get it taken care of.

My only concern is the plastic grid seems to be designed to protect the air conditioning coils.

I bought it six years ago from a friend who had it routinely serviced at a dealer.

How much will it cost to replace the fuel filter or the clutch?

Mike
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@ 5-6000 mi / yr this = 1 qt / 850-1000 mi
This is not really excesive oil consumption (in the old days we said that a V8 engine that didn't burn this much was too tight) but it is more than we experience or like. I normally add a quart every 2200 mi when I use high quality oil. I recently tried some Walmart Tech2000 oil 5w30 just as a test and used the first quart in 1650 mi and the second at 1350 mi. Went back to higher price oil and used 1/2 a qt in 1700 mi. I would think that the difference is due to the city/highway different usage.
When the car was new I would change all the oil when it was down a qt but now I add a little then change when down a qt. I aim for 3600 mi/change.
snip

buddy
good news for me now at 145k
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air
valid concern
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good used is a valid strategy especially if you know the previous owner and can trust the history.
snip

The fuel filter is over $100 + 1/2 hr shop labor approx.
The clutch is a real wild card and really depends on how badly the garage wants to beat you up. Make sure you get firm quotes for all labor and expect to change the clutch, preasure plate and probably re-face/grind the flywheel. DO replace the release bearing when it is apart.
The good news about a clutch job is that it is a lot cheeper than a rebuilt automatic (and usually lasts longer) the R&R labor is about the same as an auto but the parts are a lot less and there is a high early failure rate with rebuilt auto trannys.

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