SW2 - Trouble inserting key in ignition

Try some powdered graphite in the lock. You can find this in the tool or hardware department at Sears, or at any hardware store.

Google groups is your friend.

And since I have posted on this issue in the past and don't feel like re-typing it every time the question comes up:

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Thanks, but that's not quite my problem. I'm having trouble getting the key in sometimes. No problems getting it out. Just the little cover that is over the hole doesn't want to move at times. I mess around with it for a minute or two and all is well, but I'm wondering what's going on and if there's anything that might be causing it that wouldn't require replacing the entire ignition cylinder.

Just wasn't sure if that was common or even quite what to search on for a problem of the key not going in.

Thanks.

-Pete

"Lane" wrote:

Powdered graphite works wonders on uncooperative locks.

So does replacing the lock cylinder. They are not they hard to change on a Saturn as I just replaced the one in a 97. You do have to remove cover around steering wheel and lock and then then to insert key trun it too accessory, and eithe press a button on cylinder housing or stick a pin in a hole on it (depending on housing style as yours could be either but likley the button style) and then remove cylinder by pulling on key. Saturn can code you a new cylinder to match old key for your car and if you do it yourself it is about 35 bucks. The new cylinder just snaps right in and you are in bussiness and you replace covers on your are done. Maybe a 10 or 15 mintue job with right tools.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

A tube of powdered graphite is about three bucks, and it takes maybe fifteen seconds to puff a little bit into the lock cylinder.

Which method do *you* think makes more sense to try first?

Easier, cheaper, quicker is always a good place to start.

Ken

Well I tried the graphic trick and it made it worsed and cause the key in lock warning to run when key was out after treatment too. No more graphite for me. I had to clean the plunger in housing that cylinder pressed on when key was in that the graphite gummed up! If it is a 99 it has some wear on it too. It now works like new and it came with a new bezel around key too which is a nice touch and a extra key.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

???

Graphite is a dry powder. It doesn't -- can't -- gum anything up.

Yes it can because the plunger had a bit of grease on it from factory as did key cylinder end and the graphite combined with it and goo'ed it just enough for plunger to stick because it has a low force spring on it. Unless you are sure that lock is "dry" it is not wise to use it sometimes as I found out first hand.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

You're putting the blame in the wrong place IMO, on the graphite instead of on the grease where it belongs.

Know I am not, the grease was in there from day one, I did not put it there and that part worked fine (key warning tone) until I tried graphite and the graphite do not fix cylinder problems either so I replaced it and cleaned plunger of graphite goo .

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

I found out that Saturn used at least 3 cylinder styles in that car. The original 7 tumbler one, a upgraded 7 tumbler one that was a service replacement for the original one (not sure when this came out) and a 9 tumbler one. The 9 tumbler version came out in mid 97 so a 97 can have either one. The housing changed too for new 9 tumbler version but the upgraded 7 tumbler version retrofits into old style housing. I do not know if the 9 tumbler version was improved or not at a later date because it did not apply to my car anyway. One more thing, GM mounts the housing with break away bolts (heads break off) so if you have to replaced the housing it can be a pain getting the bolts out even when starting them with a chisel because they can have loctite on them too. Also when you replace a cylinder, you get a tumbler kit so you can easily code it to your old key.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Personally, I think some people are contributors to this. The key and cylinder will wear more if your keychain contains tons of keys and a big mess of extra crap on it (why do I often see women with HUGE keychains?). Especially as it dangles, swings around, and gets hit by your knees all the time.

Graphite may help, if that grease doesn't get in the way, but a better long-term solution is replacement of the cylinder. The original poster pointed out that it was the little metal flap/cover thingy only - but it's a part of that cylinder and the mechanisms all work together. I've had mine refuse to turn once, and when you're away from home or on the road somewhere - complete failure of it would seriously suck. It's not difficult and it's not expensive, so just replace it.

Lane [ lane (at) evilplastic.com ]

Interesting theory. It may indeed have some merit.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

Agreed on the gobs of keys. Stuffed animals and photos on the instrument panal blocking idiot lights and gages are another problem I see... Oh and crap hanging from the rearview mirror... And who is the frig'n moron that keeps tacking on all of the damn Re's!!!

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Lane gives good advice. Damn good.

Ken